2020版东华女装原型的持续性结构修正  

2020 version of continuous structural modification on Donghua young women′s garment basic block

作　　者：刘咏梅[1,2] 薛惠心[1] 徐丹娘 张向辉 LIU Yongmei;XUE Huixin;XU Danniang;ZHANG Xianghui(College of Fashion Design, Donghua University, Shanghai 200051, China;Key Laboratory of Clothing Design and Technology, Ministry of Education, Shanghai 200051, China)

机构地区：[1]东华大学服装与艺术设计学院,上海200051 [2]现代服装设计与技术教育部重点实验室,上海200051

出　　处：《纺织学报》2022年第7期135-140,共6页Journal of Textile Research

摘　　要：为适应青年女子群体体型特征的变化,提高服装原型适体度和适用性,建立2020版东华女装原型。在2008版东华女装原型的结构基础上建立假设原型,对56名18~29岁的青年女性进行真人着装的假设原型样衣修正实验;对修正数据进行差异性检验,调整原型控制部位回归关系,并探究原型臀围部位的松量分布规律。通过样衣修正实验可知,青年女性颈根围增大、肩斜趋于平缓、略呈现驼背趋势。原型在2008版东华原型基础上发生的调整为:在前横开领、后横开领、后直开领、前胸宽、后背宽、肩胛骨省道处回归关系公式发生变化,后肩斜角度减小;臀围松量在前、侧、后部位的分布分别为19.0%、60.4%、20.6%,据此建立2020版东华原型,提高了服装原型对不同款式服装的适用性。To adapt to the changes in the body shape characteristics of young women and improve the fitness and applicability of the garment basic block,the 2020 version of Donghua young women′s garment basic block was established.Based on the structure of the 2008 version of Donghua young women′s garment basic block,a hypothetical prototype for sample modification experiments was established.56 young women aged 18-29 were tested to modify the hypothetical prototype sample of real life dress.The difference test was performed on the modified data,the regression relationship between the control parts of the prototype was adjusted,and the relaxation distribution rule of the hip part of the prototype was explored.Through the sample clothing correction experiment,trends were observed on young female′s neck root circumference increase,shoulder inclination,and slight humpback.The adjustment of the prototype on the basis of the 2008 version of Donghua women′s garment basic block is as follows:the regression formula changes at the front horizontal collar,back horizontal collar,back straight collar,chest width,back width and scapula dart,and the angle of the back shoulder oblique decreases.The distribution of hip circumference looseness in front,side and back parts was 19.0%,60.4%and 20.6%,respectively.Based on these changes,the 2020 version of Donghua young women′s garment basic block would improve the applicability of clothing prototype to different styles of clothing.

关 键 词：服装原型 体型特征 着装实验 样衣修正 

分 类 号：TS941.2[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]