潮汐影响下海滩前滨波浪传播耗能过程分析  

Analysis of energy dissipation process of wave propagation in beach foreshore under the influence of tide

作　　者：宋嘉诚 戚洪帅 张弛[1] 蔡锋 尹航 SONG Jiacheng;QI Hongshuai;ZHANG Chi;CAI Feng;YIN Hang(College of Harbor,Coastal and Offshore Engineering,Hohai University,Nanjing 210024,China;Third Institute of Oceanography,Ministry of Natural Resources,Xiamen 361005,China)

机构地区：[1]河海大学港口海岸与近海工程学院,江苏南京210024 [2]自然资源部第三海洋研究所,福建厦门361005

出　　处：《热带海洋学报》2022年第4期146-153,共8页Journal of Tropical Oceanography

基　　金：国家自然科学基金项目(41930538、42076211)。

摘　　要：文章基于长乐海滩前滨剖面的实测波浪数据,通过统计分析以及谱分析的方法,探讨了潮汐过程中长乐海滩波浪参数及耗能过程的变化规律。结果表明,观测期间内波浪以混合浪为主,各测点谱型较宽,存在多峰振荡现象。向岸传播过程中,波能耗散的形式为窄频域向宽频域转变,能量分布趋于分散,高频波能减小,低频波能反而有所上升,波浪破碎后生成长重力波。破波带内的能量衰减与波浪传播距离具有良好的相关性,破碎波能在破波带内大约衰减了98.3%。潮汐水位对波浪具有明显的调制作用。入射波能随潮汐水位的增加而有所增加,且水位越高,入射波能分布越分散。破波带内的有效波高和潮汐水位具有显著的正相关关系。潮汐过程中固定测点的波谱变化与波浪沿剖面的波谱变化具有明显的相似性。Based on the measured wave data of the foreshore profile at the Changle beach,the variation rules of wave parameters and energy dissipation process in the tidal process are discussed using statistical analysis and spectral analysis.The results show that the wave in the observation period is mainly mixed wave,and the spectrum type of each sensor is wide,and the multi-peak oscillation is observed.In the process of shoreward propagation,the form of wave energy dissipation is changed from narrow frequency domain to broad frequency domain,the energy distribution tends to be dispersed,the energy of high frequency wave decreases,but the energy of low frequency wave increases,and infra-gravity wave is generated after wave breaking.There is a good correlation between the energy attenuation and the wave propagation distance in the surf zone.The energy attenuation of the broken wave in the surf zone is about 98.3%.The tidal level has obvious modulating effect on waves.The incident wave energy increases with the increase of tidal water level,and the higher the water level is,the more dispersed the distribution of incident wave energy is.There is a significant positive correlation between the effective wave height and the tidal level in the surf zone.The spectral variation of each sensor in tidal process has obvious similarity with the wave spectral variation along the profile.

关 键 词：潮汐 波参数 波浪谱 潮间带 

分 类 号：P731.22[天文地球—海洋科学]