清代织绣中湖石纹样的艺术特征与文化意蕴  

Artistic characteristics and cultural implications of lake stone patterns onembroideries in the Qing Dynasty

作　　者：于毅 田悦 张毅 YU Yi;TIAN Yue;ZHANG Yi(School of Design,Jiangnan University,Wuxi 214122,China;College of Textile Science and Engineering,Jiangnan University,Wuxi 214122,China)

机构地区：[1]江南大学设计学院,江苏无锡214122 [2]江南大学纺织科学与工程学院,江苏无锡214122

出　　处：《丝绸》2022年第7期131-138,共8页Journal of Silk

基　　金：教育部人文社会科学研究一般项目(21YJA760096);中国非物质文化遗产传承人研修培训计划项目(文非遗发〔2017〕2号);江苏省社会科学基金立项一般项目(19WMB040)。

摘　　要：湖石纹样是清代代表性装饰纹样之一,应用范围广泛。文章通过文献查阅法与田野调查法对清代织绣品中的湖石纹样进行收集,并从中筛选出120个样本对其进一步整理分析;概述了湖石纹样的发展演变,分析了纹样的造型和组合形式,并基于Opencv软件库和cvCvtColor颜色空间转换函数对湖石纹样进行HSV色彩提取换算,通过数据和图表分析其色彩特征;进一步探讨了清代织绣品中湖石纹样的文化意蕴。研究表明,清代湖石纹样造型呈“Y”字形,与纹饰中植物纹样生长方向具有同向性,纹样色彩柔和清雅,且纹样深受社会文化和地方审美的影响,具有深层次的情感寓意和文化内涵。Originated from the Taihu Lake stone,lake stone patterns have a unique style and have been given endowed with cultural connotations because of the accompaniment of stone appreciation culture and garden culture.Lake stone patterns were highly respected in the Qing Dynasty when arts and crafts reached their peak and were widely used to decorate embroideries.There are few studies on lake stone patterns,and the relevant literature mostly takes lake stone culture as the starting point to explain the aesthetic characteristics of lake stone modeling.However,there is still a lack of artistic features and cultural implications of lake stone patterns.An in-depth study of lake stone patterns can help understand the aesthetic and humanistic thoughts of the times,broaden the scope of the study of natural attribute patterns,and provide corresponding theoretical references for related research.The article takes the lake stone patterns as the research object.Combined with relevant literature and field research,it analyzed 120 pieces of embroideries with lake stones patterns in the Qing Dynasty based on the collected physical examples.Firstly,we summarized and interpreted the concept and origin of lake stone patterns.Secondly,we analyzed the shapes and combinations of lake stone patterns in the Qing Dynasty embroideries and performed HSV color extraction and conversion on lake stone patterns based on the Opencv software library and the cvCvtColor.Besides,the cultural meaning of the patterns was explored and summarized from the perspective of folk aesthetics and the background of the times by combining physical examples.The research shows that:ⅰ)The lake stone patterns originated from the Taihu Lake stone were given deep cultural meaning due to the accompaniment of stone appreciation culture and garden culture,and were extended to be used in the decoration of embroidery.In the Qing Dynasty when arts and crafts were flourishing,the lake stone pattern became one of the representative decorative patterns due to the southward shift

关 键 词：清代织绣品 湖石纹样 艺术特征 HSV色彩模型 文化意蕴 

分 类 号：TS941.12[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程] K892.23[历史地理—民俗学]