从《皇清职贡图》管窥乾隆时期台湾平埔族服饰  

Restricted view of Pingpu costumes in Taiwan during Qianlong Period from Royal Tribute Picture of the Qing Dynasty

作　　者：唐素 李斌 陈东生[2] TANG Su;LI Bin;CHEN Dongsheng(School of Fashion Design,Wuhan Textile University,Wuhan 430073,China;Chinese Costume Culture Research Center,Jiangxi Institute of Fashion Technology,Nanchang 330201,China)

机构地区：[1]武汉纺织大学服装学院,武汉430073 [2]江西服装学院中华服饰文化研究中心,南昌330201

出　　处：《丝绸》2022年第7期139-146,共8页Journal of Silk

基　　金：教育部人文社会科学研究规划基金项目(18YJA760001)。

摘　　要：《皇清职贡图》可窥乾隆时期台湾服饰,具有了解已经近乎消失的台湾平埔族群服饰的价值。文章综合运用文献研究法和图像学研究法,结合民族学和人类学,以《皇清职贡图》所绘26幅台湾平埔族群服饰为研究对象,对乾隆时期平埔族群服饰特征进行分析。研究表明:台湾平埔族群服饰在形制上可分为原始型、传统型和汉式服饰三种,在纹样上喜用几何纹和花草纹、海水纹、云纹等自然形象纹样,同时男女服饰在款式、色彩上差异较大;民族服饰受地理环境和文化环境的双重影响,台湾平埔族群服饰从最初文献记载的身披鹿皮、衣不蔽体到清代后期的服饰颇有汉族特色,其服饰形制的最初形成与当地地理环境密不可分,清代时期其服饰文化变迁则是社会发展和民族间交流的结果;台湾平埔族服饰的性别差异较为明显,女性服饰装饰性和开化性更强,如女性束绑腿布等,这与男女社会分工不同,对于服饰的实用性需求不同有较大关系。The Pingpu ethnic groups refer to the indigenous peoples living in the Pingye area of Taiwan Province,but due to the long-term economic and cultural exchanges with the Han nationality,their customs,habits,languages,etc.have been gradually influenced by the Han nationality,and the clothing culture is so difficult to verify due to the perishable nature of textile fiber that few physical objects remain.Therefore,there are few studies on Pingpu costume nowadays.Royal Tribute Picture of the Qing Dynasty,a national history book of the Qianlong period of the Qing Dynasty,draws the image of the characters at that time,from which people can get a glimpse of the Taiwan costumes of the Qianlong period.On the one hand,the study of it has the value of understanding the Pingpu costumes that have almost disappeared,and on the other hand,it is conducive to using costumes as a clue to understand the long-term exchanges among various ethnic groups,so as to provide theoretical support for the development of national cultural resources.In order to analyze the characteristics and causes of the costumes of the Pingpu ethnic groups in Taiwan during the Qianlong period of the Qing Dynasty,the article takes the styles,the patterns and the gender differences of the costumes depicted in the figures as the starting point,comprehensively uses the literature research method and the iconographic research method,and compares the records of the Taiwan Pingpu ethnic costumes in the ancient literature to study the 26 Taiwan Pingpu ethnic costumes drawn in Royal Tribute Picture of the Qing Dynasty.Through the analysis of the characteristics and causes of the costumes of the Royal Tribute Picture of the Qing Dynasty,three main conclusions are drawn as follows:ⅰ)Taiwan Pingpu ethnic costumes can be divided into three categories in terms of shape,namely primitive clothing,traditional clothing,and Han-style clothing,and they like geometric patterns and natural image patterns such as flower and grass patterns,seawater patterns,and cloud patterns;at th

关 键 词：《皇清职贡图》 清代 平埔族 台湾服饰 人类学 服饰文化 

分 类 号：TS941.12[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程] K892.23[历史地理—民俗学]