独幅抽针拼花大提花面料的工艺设计  

Process design of single piece large jacquard fabric on pumping needle and stitching pattern

作　　者：郭岭岭 林洪芹[1] 王淑莉 李国强 刘莹莹 冒海燕 GUO Lingling;LIN Hongqin;WANG Shuli;LI Guoqiang;LIU Yingying;MAO Haiyan(Yancheng Institute of Technology,Yancheng,Jiangsu 224001,China;Wuzhong Henghe Weaving Technology Co.,Ltd.,Wuzhong,Ningxia 751199,China;Jiangsu Yueda Home Textile Co.,Ltd.,Yancheng,Jiangsu 224000,China)

机构地区：[1]盐城工学院,江苏盐城224001 [2]吴忠恒和织造科技有限公司,宁夏吴忠751199 [3]江苏悦达家纺有限公司,江苏盐城224000

出　　处：《毛纺科技》2022年第7期8-12,共5页Wool Textile Journal

基　　金：国家自然科学基金青年项目(52103067);江苏省自然科学基金项目(BK20191045);江苏省产学研项目(BY2020337)。

摘　　要：为拓展大提花装造的应用空间,丰富大提花织机的生产品种,针对大提花装造固定的花幅、经密,品种单一受限的问题,通过研究织机装造固有特点并借助浙大经纬CAD软件,将提花抽针拼花设计工艺与生产织造相融合,设计一系列纹板使综丝按指令运动,从而实现“一装造多用途”和拼花花纹的上机织造。研究结果表明:抽针拼花设计工艺不仅使大提花装造灵活多变,突破固有缺陷,而且在生产中翻新品种时,操作方便,省时省工省力,进而赋予织机生产高附加值面料的能力,提高企业的产品竞争力。In order to expand the application space of jacquard tie,enrich the production varieties of jacquard looms,and resolve the problems of fixed width,warp density and single variety of jacquard looms limited,the jacquard drawing needle parquet design technology and production weaving were integrated by studying the inherent characteristics of jacquard tie and using Zhejiang University Jingwei CAD software.Then a series of patterned plates were designed to make the healds move as instructed,so as to realize"a multi-purpose assembly"and patterned woven on the machine.The research shows that the drawing needle parquet design process not only makes the jacquard fabric flexible and changeable and breaks through the inherent defects,but also easies to operate,saves time and labor in the renovation of varieties.Furthermore,it gives the loom the ability to produce high value-added fabrics,and improves the product competitiveness of enterprises.

关 键 词：独幅花型 抽针工艺 拼接花型 大提花织机 装造 

分 类 号：TS105[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程]