民间彩印花布的图案风格与工艺特色  

Pattern style and craft characteristics of Chinese folk art"color-printed cloth"

作　　者：鲍小龙[1] 鲍文萱 邬松林 张晓霞[3] BAO Xiaolong;BAO Wenxuan;WU Songlin;ZHANG Xiaoxia(College of Fashion and Design,Donghua University,Shanghai 200051,China;London College of Fashion,University of Arts London,London W1G 0BJ,UK;School of Art,Soochow University,Suzhou,Jiangsu 215021,China)

机构地区：[1]东华大学服装与艺术设计学院,上海200051 [2]伦敦艺术大学伦敦时装学院,英国伦敦W1G 0BJ [3]苏州大学艺术学院,江苏苏州215021

出　　处：《毛纺科技》2022年第7期45-50,共6页Wool Textile Journal

基　　金：文化和旅游部研究项目(20AG009)。

摘　　要：针对目前我国民间彩印花布图案风格与工艺特色的研究较少的问题,以近现代国内各地留存的不同风格与工艺的彩印花布实物和相关史料研究为理论依据,运用深入考证和分析类比的研究方法,从历史发展的角度对镂空花版彩印花布的概念和范畴进行分析,重点研究在不同地域文化影响下,彩印工艺因面料、染料、染色方法及用途的不同而产生的图案风格、构图形式及用色特点的变化。指出五彩多样的民间彩印花布蕴含着丰富的传统文化价值,传承和创新其生产工艺,可为解决目前国内纺织品印花图案民族化设计相对欠缺的问题以及相关的印花创新设计提供有益的启示和帮助。Due to the study on the pattern design and techniques of Chinese Folk color printed fabrics was less,the research focused on the change of color printing process on pattern style,composition and color characteristics caused by fabrics,dyes,dyeing methods and uses under the influence of different regional cultures.Based on the color printed fabric with different styles and techniques which were retained throughout the country in modern times,as well as the relevant historical data research,the concept and category of cut-out patterning color printing fabric were analyzed by the methods of textual research and analogy analysis from the perspective of historical development.It is pointed out that the colorful folk colored printed cloth contains rich traditional cultural value.The inheritance and innovation of its production technology can provide useful inspiration on related innovative printing design and help to solve the lack of the national design on present domestic textile printing pattern.

关 键 词：彩印花布 镂空花版 图案风格 印花工艺 文化传承 

分 类 号：J523[艺术—艺术设计]