中国古代女性眉黛及黛砚考略  

A Brief Study of Women's Eyebrow Pigment and Inkstones in ancient China

作　　者：李依洋 李芽[1] LI Yiyang;LI Ya(Department of Stage Art,Shanghai Theater Academy,Shanghai 200040 China)

机构地区：[1]上海戏剧学院舞台美术系,上海200040

出　　处：《服饰导刊》2022年第4期26-32,共7页Fashion Guide

基　　金：上海市冷门绝学项目“中国古代妆品与妆容复原研究”(2019ZJX005);柒牌非物质文化遗产研究与保护基金一般项目“中国古代妆容研究”(2018)立项第01号的阶段性成果。

摘　　要：[研究意义]中国古代女性长期以眉黛和墨画眉,黛砚作为研磨眉黛的用具,是基于女性对于眉妆的重视而广泛使用的。[研究方法]文章通过整理文献记载及存世的实物资料,分析古代女性眉黛及黛砚的演变及使用。[研究结果与结论]中国古代女性的画眉用材与书写用材的源流发展呈现高度的关联性,其中眉黛及黛砚的发展相较于文具具有显著的滞后性,其流变不仅取决于各个时期制作技术水平,也与社会风气、女性地位密切相关;眉黛与黛砚作为化妆工具,本身也彰显了古人化妆手法及风格,是中国古代女性生活的缩影。Ancient China has long and unique makeup history,and the make up of eyebrow is an important part of it.Influenced by the long-continuing tradition of soft pen calligraphy,Chinese women also used writing brushes to draw eyebrows in ancient times.Therefore,the heavily processed solid pigments-Meidai and Ink have become the materials for eyebrow thrush in ancient China for more than 2,000 years by using the inkstone called"Daiyan"as a tool for grinding eyebrow pigment.Makeup,as a painting directly applied to the human body,cannot be directly presented to us because of time limitation.Due to the lack of objective factors such as the lack of archaeological excavations,distortion of image data,and unclear written records,research is difficult.Therefore,this article starts with cosmetic tools,through sorting out literature records and referring to surviving physical materials,from the three aspects of the development of the relationship between ancient Chinese thrush materials and writing materials,the development of Daiyan and the use of Daiyan,the classification and analysis of ancient thrush tools,and then explore the drawing process of ancient the make up of eyebrow,and outline a clearer picture of ancient Chinese women's life.The way of life in an era is inseparable from the social culture at that time,and social culture is based on material productive forces.Therefore,an in-depth analysis of ancient living utensils and production materials is an important way to study the way of life of the ancients.This paper firstly conducts research on eyebrow pigment and inkstones in ancient China,among which the research on eyebrow pigment is mainly based on the analysis of literature materials,while inkstones can refer to cultural relics.After sorting them out separately,compare the two correspondingly,and draw an overall conclusion.From the perspective of vertical comparison,the pigments of ancient Chinese thrush are mainly divided into two types:"pigment"and"ink",which are often collectively referred to as Meidai in poetry

关 键 词：眉黛 黛砚 古代妆容 化妆工具 古代女性 

分 类 号：TS941.12[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]