蕾丝——作为跨界时尚主体的语境构建与多元解读  

Lace-Context Construction and Multiple Interpretation as the Subject of Cross-border Fashion

作　　者：杨秋华[1] YANG Qiuhua(School of Art and Design,Shenzhen Polytechnic,Shenzhen 518000 China)

机构地区：[1]深圳职业技术学院艺术设计学院,深圳518055

出　　处：《服饰导刊》2022年第4期48-55,共8页Fashion Guide

基　　金：江苏省教育厅高校哲社科项目(2021SJA0426);深圳职业技术学院人文社会科学重点课题(6021310006S)。

摘　　要：[研究意义]蕾丝作为一种古老而特殊的时尚服饰材料,其发轫久远,尤其是在西方服饰文化发展中,蕾丝作为一种历久弥新的时尚装饰元素,占有十分重要的时尚主体话语地位,在各个历史阶段和相关时尚领域都展现出不同的时代特征和社会文化学意义。[研究方法]文章运用文献学、图像学和社会文化学的研究方法,对蕾丝在阶层划分、性别塑造、时尚构建、跨界运用中的作用,以及拓展与变异、开放与闭合的文化特征进行了多层次的研究和探讨。[研究结果和结论]研究表明,从历史发展和国际时尚语境的角度来看,蕾丝从产生伊始作为王室贵族权利和欲望的象征,到伴随社会、科技发展成为大众化装饰宠儿的机织蕾丝,再到当今全球化的多元化交叉、跨界发展的时装面料,其在不同的社会文化语境下,以包容性、通用性、构建性、可塑性的时尚特征,受到不同阶层的消费者和时尚设计师、跨界艺术家的追捧。蕾丝在服装、家纺、跨界艺术中能够成为时尚主体构成的主要因素,不仅取决于蕾丝本体的装饰魅力,更取决于社会文化语境建构中的实用性,以及不同话语主体的丰富解读,同时也取决于各个时代服饰材料、科学技术、社会文化发展的支撑。此文以社会文化学语境深入分析了蕾丝作为时尚主体的多元特征,以及在跨界和交叉观念下构建蕾丝时尚话语的机制特征,研究成果对蕾丝在现代服饰以及其他领域的非同质化、创造性运用都将带来有益的启示。Lace,as an ancient and special fashion clothing material,has a long history.Especially in the development of Western clothing culture,lace,as an enduring fashion decorative element,occupies a very important fashion discourse position in the development of clothing.It shows different characteristics of the times and socio-cultural significance in various historical stages and related fashion fields.The research on the development history of lace and the significance of social culture is not only a reunderstanding of the history of dress decoration,but also will promote the construction and development of lace fashion in different design fields.Using the research methods of philology,iconology and socioculture,this study conducted a multi-level research and Discussion on the role of lace in class division,gender shaping,fashion construction,cross-border application,as well as the cultural characteristics of expansion and variation,openness and closure.The research shows that the European lace originated in the middle ages,which piously expressed the reverence and worship of the aristocratic women in Flanders in southwest Europe for the Catholic theocracy.The origin of lace is undoubtedly the result of strong religious belief.In the subsequent development,lace was favored by European royal families and nobles because of its exquisite,light,transparent and elegant decorative effects,and became a symbol of power and desire and a high-profile dress symbol to highlight the supreme power of the Royal class.Lace originated in southwest Europe and spread not only to European countries,but also to the Americas and the Asian continent.In the social and cultural context of different regions,lace presents the interweaving and variation with different social concepts and different cultural contexts,which makes lace show richer regional cultural connotation and the personality characteristics of image narration on the basis of the original cultural genes.With the development of industrialization and economic globalization,the re

关 键 词：蕾丝 时尚主体 性别塑造 语境构建 多元解读 

分 类 号：TS941.12[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]