箱型理论在男衬衫结构设计中的应用与探讨  

Application and discussion of box theory in the structural design of men’s shirts

作　　者：朱开荣 Zhu Kairong(Shanghai Wenhua Meimei Vocational Training School,Shanghai 200000,China)

机构地区：[1]上海文华美美职业培训学校,上海200000

出　　处：《纺织报告》2022年第7期42-45,共4页

摘　　要：服装作为人的第二层皮肤,不仅是生活的必需品,还是人类文明程度的体现。衬衫是男人衣橱中的必备品,在西方,衬衫甚至被认为是“绅士的颜面”,可见其重要性。随着人类文化艺术的不断进步,服装设计呈现出各种新颖、奇特的手法,男衬衫设计也发生了重大变化,各种时尚、个性化的衬衫层出不穷,男士的穿着也越来越追求修身、干练的效果。三开身衬衫采用安东武男先生的箱型理论,大胆突破男装设计的程式化,使服装更修身合体,更好地实现了功能性与形体美的协调与统一。文章主要介绍了男衬衫的发展概况及分类,分析了箱型理论在男衬衫结构设计中的应用,阐述了三开身男衬衫的结构设计、裁剪及缝制工艺。As the second layer of human skin, clothing is not only a necessity of life, but also the embodiment of human civilization. Shirt is an essential item in men’s wardrobe. In the west, shirt is even considered as “gentleman’s face”, which shows its importance. With the continuous progress of human culture and art, clothing design presents a variety of novel and strange techniques, the design of men’s shirts has also undergone significant changes, and various fashionable and personalized shirts emerge in endlessly, men’s clothes are also increasingly pursuing the effect of self-cultivation and ability. The shirt calculated as one-third of the busty adopts Mr. Takeo Anton’s box theory, boldly breaks through the stylized of men’s clothing design, makes the clothing more slim and fit, and better realizes the coordination and unity of function and physical beauty.This paper mainly introduces the development and classification of men’s shirts, analyzes the application of box theory in the structural design of men’s shirts, and expounds the structural design, cutting and sewing technology of the shirt calculated as one-third of the bust.

关 键 词：箱型理论 三开身 合体 

分 类 号：TS941.718[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]