色织嵌银丝弹力休闲面料的设计与生产  

Design and production of yarn-dyed elastic leisure fabric with silver-inlaid yarn

作　　者：蔡永东 CAI Yongdong(Jiangsu College of Engineering and Technology,Nantong 226006,Jiangsu,China;Jiangsu Province Advanced Textile Technology Center,Nantong 226006,Jiangsu,China)

机构地区：[1]江苏工程职业技术学院,江苏南通226006 [2]江苏省先进纺织工程技术中心,江苏南通226006

出　　处：《上海纺织科技》2022年第7期46-48,共3页Shanghai Textile Science & Technology

基　　金：2014年江苏省先进纺织工程技术中心资助项目[苏政办(2014)-22-3-4]。

摘　　要：为开发色织嵌银丝弹力休闲面料,在经纬向原料搭配上进行设计,经纱由棉、丝并捻纱及涤纶镀银丝组成,纬纱由无捻长丝和加捻高弹丝组成。简述了产品设计思路与风格特征,重点介绍了产品设计过程,如原料选配、织物规格、组织结构和色纱排列。对产品关键生产工序,如并捻、加捻、整经、浆纱及织造等所采取的工艺与技术措施进行详细分析。该产品顺利投产,经测试,坯布织造效率达92%,下机一等品率达87%,入库一等品率达99%。经测试,成品面料各项质量指标均达到优等品标准。In order to develop a fashionable yarn-dyed elastic leisure fabric with silver-inlaid yarn,an elaborate design of raw materials is carried out on the matching of the warp and weft yarn.The warp is consisted of cotton,silk parallel twist yarn and polyester silver-plated yarn,and the weft is composed of untwisted filament and twisted high elastic filament.The idea and style of product design are briefly introduced,and the process of product design is discussed,such as raw material selection,fabric specification,organization structure,color yarn arrangement,etc.The process and technical measures adopted in the key processes such as twisting,twisting,warping,sizing and weaving are analyzed in detail.The product is successfully put into production,and the weaving efficiency of grey fabric can reach 92%,the first-class product rate of lower machine is 87%,and the product rate of storage is 99%.After testing,all of the quality indexes of the finished fabric reach the standard of excellent products.

关 键 词：混纺织物 棉 桑蚕丝 涤纶 色织物 产品设计 生产技术 

分 类 号：TS106.8[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程]