基于合体两片袖的内旋造型结构设计  

Pattern design of inner rotation styles based on fitted two-piece sleeve

作　　者：鲁虹[1,2] 宋佳怡 李圆圆 滕峻峰 LU Hong;SONG Jiayi;LI Yuanyuan;TENG Junfeng(College of Fashion and Design,Donghua University,Shanghai 200051,China;Key Laboratory of Clothing Design and Technology,Ministry of Education,Donghua University,Shanghai 200051,China;Shanghai Taoteng Clothing Co.,Ltd.,Shanghai 201612,China)

机构地区：[1]东华大学服装与艺术设计学院,上海200051 [2]东华大学现代服装设计与技术教育部重点实验室,上海200051 [3]上海陶滕服饰有限公司,上海201612

出　　处：《纺织学报》2022年第8期140-146,共7页Journal of Textile Research

摘　　要：为探究袖身内旋造型的形成机制及影响因素,增强合体两片袖的活动性和机能性,从立裁角度提出分割线借量法、袖中线偏移法与袖中线旋转法3种结构设计方法。借助三维虚拟试衣技术进行单变量试验设计,确定每种方法中各变量的取值范围;通过正交试验设计,完成16款袖子的结构设计、虚拟试衣及实样制作;最后建立评价体系,进行主客观评价与分析。结果表明:各变量对内旋夹角影响程度的大小依次为袖中线旋转量、分割线借量、袖中线偏移量;结合动静态指标、主客观评价数据,得到的美观与舒适俱佳的袖子变量组合为分割线借量0.5 cm,袖中线偏移量2 cm,袖中线旋转量1 cm。Aiming at exploring the forming mechanism and influencing factors of the internal rotation structure of two-piece sleeve and enhancing its mobility and function,three methods were proposed from the draping perspective which are the parting line shifting method,sleeve midline deflection method and sleeve midline rotation method.The value range of each variable for the three methods was determined through the univariate analysis by adopting the 3-D virtual fitting technique.The sleeve pattern of 16 samples from orthogonal experiment were designed for virtual fitting and actual sample making.Subjective and objective evaluation results were analyzed by the established evaluation system.The results show that the influence of each variable on the inner rotation angle was sleeve midline rotation,parting line shifting and sleeve midline deflection in turn.Combined with dynamic and static indicators,as well as the subjective and objective evaluation data analysis,the sleeve sample with variable combination of parting line shifting 0.5 cm,midline deflection 2 cm and midline shifting 1 cm results in the best aesthetics and comfort results.

关 键 词：合体两片袖 内旋造型 结构设计 内旋夹角 三维虚拟试衣 立裁 

分 类 号：TS941.17[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]