基于变化纬网目组织的立体凹凸曲线织物的设计与开发  

Design and development of concave-convex curve fabric based on variation weft-net weave

作　　者：郁兰[1] 李娟 戚思干[3] YU Lan;LI Juan;QI Sigan(Yancheng Institute of Industry Technology,Yancheng,Jiangsu 224005,China;Yancheng Jianheng Wool Textile Technology Co.,Ltd.,Yancheng,Jiangsu 224300,China;Jiangsu Yueda Group Co.,Ltd.,Yancheng,Jiangsu 224000,China)

机构地区：[1]盐城工业职业技术学院纺织服装学院,江苏盐城224005 [2]盐城健恒毛纺织科技有限公司,江苏盐城224300 [3]江苏悦达纺织集团有限公司,江苏盐城224000

出　　处：《毛纺科技》2022年第8期19-23,共5页Wool Textile Journal

基　　金：江苏省高等职业教育产教融合集成平台建设计划项目(苏教职函〔2019〕26号);江苏省高等职业教育产教深度融合实训平台建设计划项目(苏教高〔2016〕19号)。

摘　　要：为丰富织物品种,针对纬网目组织织物花型过于单调的情况,通过独特的组织设计,提出一种具有特殊立体凹凸曲线效果的织物织造方法。从多个方面研究了影响织物立体凹凸曲线效果的因素,并通过试织小样,对比分析,进行了优化设计。最终确定了网目纬沉背的组织结构,通过地经与花经将网目纬夹在中间的芯层结构,增强了织物外观立体凹凸弯曲效果。研究结果表明,采用优化后工艺可获得明显、自然凹凸立体感的纬网目弯曲效果的织物。其格型美观,织纹细腻,手感松软、厚实,立体感强,保温性好,可用作织造围巾、茶巾、床罩、沙发垫子等等各类毛型或棉型中厚型纺织品。In order to enrich the variety of fabrics,aiming at the shortcomings that the weft-net fabrics pattern is too monotonous,a special method of weaving the three-dimensional concave-convex curved fabric was proposed and developed through unique organizational structure design.The factors affecting the formation of the three-dimensional concave-convex curve effect of the fabric were studied from several aspects and the optimized design was carried out through the comparative analysis of the trial weaving samples.Finally,the weave structure of the net weft,the core layer structure of the net weft between ground warp and figure warp,and the weave structure that enhances the three-dimensional concave-convex curve effect of fabric appearance were determined.The result shows that optimized process obtains obvious,constant and natural concave-convex three-dimensional fabrics with net curved effect.The grid is beautiful,the weave pattern is delicate,the hand feels soft,thick,three-dimensional,and the heat retention is good.It can be used for weaving scarves,tea towels,bedspreads,sofa cushions and other medium and thick fabrics.

关 键 词：纬网目组织 芯层结构 立体凹凸曲线效应 机织物 

分 类 号：TS105.3[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程]