精纺双层顺毛花呢的开发  

Development of worsted double layer smooth woollen tweed

作　　者：曹燕红[1] 查神爱 侯莉敏[1] CAO Yanhong;ZHA Shen′ai;HOU Limin(Jiangsu Sunshine Co.,Ltd.,Jiangyin,Jiangsu 214426,China)

机构地区：[1]江苏阳光股份有限公司,江苏江阴214426

出　　处：《毛纺科技》2022年第8期24-27,共4页Wool Textile Journal

摘　　要：为适应当前消费者追求时尚、个性、穿着舒适的需求,以精纺纺纱、织造和粗纺拉毛顺毛后整理工艺相结合开发精纺双层顺毛花呢产品,并对生产中的纺纱、织造、后整理的工艺流程和工艺数据进行设计分析,对生产过程中的工艺管理要点和质量控制进行了探讨和总结。在精粗纺结合的染整工艺中,根据精纺纱线紧密,纤维长度较长的特征,采取了轻缩绒、窄开幅和双面轻度多次拉毛,使面料达到预期的风格特点,各项指标均达到了国标技术要求。可为企业提高精粗纺结合的花呢品种设计水平,生产出更优质、具有差别化特色的精纺新产品提供参考。In order to meet the consumers'needs of fashion,individuality and comfortable wearing,a kind of worsted doublelayer woollen tweed was developed by combining worsted spinning,weaving and woollen finishing processes.The process and data of spinning,weaving and finishing were designed and analyzed.And the key points of process management and quality control during the production were discussed and summarized.In the dyeing and finishing process of the combination of worsted and woollen,according to the characteristics of tight worsted yarn and long fiber length,light shrinkage,narrow opening and light multiple roughening on both sides were adopted to make the fabric meet the expected style characteristics,and all indicators met the technical requirements of the national standard.It can provide reference for continuously improving the design level of tweed varieties combined with worsted and woollen,and producing new worsted products with higher quality and differentiation.

关 键 词：精纺织物 顺毛花呢 粗纺拉毛顺毛整理 工艺设计 

分 类 号：TS136[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]