基于主题创意的织物组织结构设计方法研究  

Research on design method of fabric weave based on theme originality

作　　者：赵静 王露芳[1] 倪闻兰 ZHAO Jing;WANG Lufang;NI Wenlan(School of Design and Fashion,Zhejiang University of Science and Technology,Hangzhou 310023,Zhejiang,China)

机构地区：[1]浙江科技学院艺术设计与服装学院,杭州310023

出　　处：《浙江科技学院学报》2022年第4期363-372,共10页Journal of Zhejiang University of Science and Technology

摘　　要：织物组织结构是面料成形的基础,由于设计人员对织物组织结构认识不够深入,并且缺乏实用的时尚面料设计方法,一些国产面料的设计缺乏创意,为此,进行了织物组织结构设计方法的研究。首先发掘织物组织间的演变规律,然后对意大利面料实物的组织结构进行分析,最后进行渐变色效果、肌理效果、小花纹效果的新组织试样及三个案例的创新面料设计实践。试验研究中,根据在三原组织的基础上增减组织点或改变飞数,三原组织可演变成变化组织、联合组织及复杂组织,归纳出了织物组织结构间的演变规律,并提出了基于主题创意的织物组织结构设计方法:从主题创意中提取时尚元素(色彩、肌理、小花纹等);把时尚元素转换成相应的组织结构;设计新的组织来诠释和表达主题创意。本组织设计方法既符合潮流趋势又易于操作,可为面料设计人员提供方法参考。Fabric weave is the basis of fabric formation.However,the design of some domestic fabrics is afflicted with lack of originality due to the designers’insufficient in-depth understanding of the fabric weave and lack of practical fashion fabric design methods.Hence,a study was carried out on the design method of fabric weave,exploring the evolution patterns between fabric weaves,analyzing fabric weave of Italian fabric materials and followed bytrial samples of new tissues with gradient color effect,texture effect,small pattern effect and three cases of innovative fabric design practice.In the experimental study,the evolution patterns between fabric weaves were summed up by increasing or decreasing interlacing points or changing the number of shift on the basis of the three-elementary weave,which could evolve into derivative weave,combined weave and complex weave.Moreover,a design method of fabric weave was proposed on the basis of theme originality:extracting fashion elements(color,texture,small pattern,etc.)from the theme originality,transforming the fashion elements into a corresponding fabric weave,and designing a new weave to interpret and express the theme originality.The weave design method is both on-trend and easy to operate,which can provide method reference for fabric designers.

关 键 词：织物组织结构 主题创意 面料设计 设计方法 

分 类 号：TS105.11[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程]