腈纶/粘胶混纺面料的染整加工  

Wet processing of acrylic-viscose blended fabric

作　　者：胡青青 张肖 陈红霞 HU Qingqing;ZHANG Xiao;CHEN Hongxia(Jiangsu Goldsun Textile Science and Technology Co.,Ltd.,Nantong 226314,China)

机构地区：[1]江苏金太阳纺织科技股份有限公司,江苏南通226314

出　　处：《印染》2022年第9期22-26,共5页China Dyeing and Finishing

摘　　要：通过单染腈纶纤维,使30/70腈粘混纺面料获得差异化仿色纺的布面风格。试验发现,面料白度随着腈纶含量的增加而降低;前处理工艺中,采用一正一反轻烧毛、酶退浆、弱碱漂白工艺,以避免腈纶泛黄;磨毛时由于磨料对面料经纬纱损伤程度不同,需兼顾起毛起球、强力和脱毛率三者之间的性能;采用98℃染色;定形柔软时加大超喂,从而减轻预缩机的预缩量。Dyeing process of acrylic fiber of 30/70 acrylic-viscose fabric with cationic dyes is carried out to obtain the yarn dyed-like style. It is found that the whiteness of fabric decreases with the increase of acrylic fiber content. In the pretreatment process of acrylic-viscose fabric, one-face-one-back light singeing, enzyme desizing and alkalescence bleaching are adopted to avoid the yellowing of acrylic fiber. In the process of emerizing, the damage degree and contact probability of the warp and weft yarns of the fabric are different, so it is necessary to take into account the performance of the fabric’s pilling, strength and fiber shedding. The acrylicviscose fabric is dyed at 98 ℃. In the softening setting process, the overfeeding can be increased, so as to reduce the pre-shrinkage.

关 键 词：染整 阳离子染料 抗起毛起球 腈粘混纺织物 

分 类 号：TS190.5[轻工技术与工程—纺织化学与染整工程]