服装形变对羽绒服隔热能力的影响  

Effect of clothing deformation on thermal insulation capacity of down jackets

作　　者：吴黛唯 黄家成 王云仪[1,2] WU Daiwei;HUANG Jiacheng;WANG Yunyi(College of Fashion and Design,Donghua University,Shanghai 200051,China;Key Laboratory of Clothing Design and Technology,Ministry of Education,Donghua University,Shanghai 200051,China)

机构地区：[1]东华大学服装与艺术设计学院,上海200051 [2]东华大学现代服装设计与技术教育部重点实验室,上海200051

出　　处：《纺织学报》2022年第9期167-174,共8页Journal of Textile Research

基　　金：中央高校基本科研业务费专项资金资助项目(2232022G-08)。

摘　　要：为探究服装形变对羽绒服隔热能力的影响规律,采用系带收紧法设计了羽绒服的形变方式和形变水平,并制作了4件充绒量分别为110、135、150、180 g/m^(2)的样衣,分别对应薄型、普通型、中厚型和厚型羽绒服;然后利用暖体假人测试服装热阻,同时获取样衣在不同形变水平下的局部体积(包括羽绒服本身和衣下空间),分析了服装形变对羽绒服总热阻和局部热阻的影响规律。结果表明:羽绒服形变会改变其内部空气的流动状态,对隔热能力产生规律性影响,并因充绒量的不同而存在差异,但存在一个适宜的形变程度使羽绒服的保暖性最优;服装局部隔热能力大小、受形变影响的变化幅度及规律性与人体体表曲线的凹凸程度和是否靠近服装边缘开口处均相关。To explore the influence of clothing deformation on the thermal insulation capacity of down jackets, a belt tightening method was used to deform the clothing with deformation levels. Four levels of down fill weight, 110, 135, 150, 180 g/m^(2), representing light, ordinary, midweight, and weight protective down jackets, were adopted to make sample down jackets. The thermal resistance of these samples, as well as the local volume which consists of the sample and the air layer under it under different deformation levels were obtained by thermal manikin test, respectively. The influence of clothing deformation on the total and local thermal resistance of down jackets was then investigated and analyzed. The results show that the deformation of down jackets will change the state of air flow inside the down jackets, having influence on the thermal insulation capacity of down jackets depending on different down fill weight. There exists a degree of deformation that leads to the optimal thermal insulation capacity of the down jackets. Local thermal insulation value of clothing and the range and regularity of its variation affected by deformation are associated with the concave and convex body surface, and with the clothing openings.

关 键 词：服装形变 羽绒服 充绒量 隔热能力 热传递 

分 类 号：TS941.77[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]