历代舆服中的纷与帨  

Fen and Shui in Yufu of the Past Dynasties

作　　者：宋伶俐 陈芳[1] Song Lingli;Chen Fang

机构地区：[1]北京服装学院

出　　处：《服装设计师》2022年第10期49-55,共7页Fashion China

基　　金：北京服装学院研究生科研创新项目,项目编号120301990131。

摘　　要：纷帨为古代舆服中表示身份等级的佩饰,其在历代的发展并不相同。自《隋书》记载的隋代舆服志开始,纷帨在舆服中反应尊卑等级制度。但《辽史》后,纷帨难以表示服饰等级。至清,纷帨再一次成为含有等级制色彩的服饰佩件。笔者拟从舆服志入手,梳理历代纷帨的相关记载,进一步探讨纷帨的使用情况,理清其中的发展脉络,从而试探讨舆服中男佩纷帨转变为男佩纷女佩帨的原由。Fenshui,as a symbol of identity in ancient,developed differently in the past dynasties.Since the Fenshui recorded in Suishu in Sui Dynasty,Fenshui gradually contains the meaning of hierarchy.But after Liao Dynasty,Fenshui no longer indicates identity level.Until the Qing Dynasty,Fenshui once again became a hierarchical style of accessories.This article intends to start with the Yu Fu Zhi,sort out the relevant records of Fenshui in the past dynasties,further discuss the development of Fenshui,so as to try to explore the reason why men wear Feishui in Yufu have changed into men wear Fen and women wear Shui.

关 键 词：舆服 纷 帨 

分 类 号：K87[历史地理—考古学及博物馆学]