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作 者:卞玉瑶 朱含春 陈益松[1,2] BIAN Yu-yao;ZHU Han-chun;CHEN Yi-song(College of Fashion and Design,Donghua University,Shanghai 200051,China;Key Laboratory of Clothing Design&Technology,Ministry of Education,Donghua University,Shanghai 200051,China)
机构地区:[1]东华大学服装与艺术设计学院,上海200051 [2]东华大学现代服装设计与技术教育部重点试验室,上海200051
出 处:《北京服装学院学报(自然科学版)》2022年第2期40-45,60,共7页Journal of Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology:Natural Science Edition
摘 要:为探究引起棉与涤纶织物舒适性差异的原因,选择了组织结构相同,厚度、面密度相近的棉和涤纶2种织物。在对比2种织物单层各项舒适性指标的基础上,进一步比较二者以不同顺序叠加组合(棉内/涤外组合与涤内/棉外组合)时的热湿性能指标,发现将织物叠加组合后可避免比较过程中面料自身因素差异的影响,且叠加后的2个织物组合热阻、湿阻及透湿率等参数基本相同或接近,但与皮肤接触的棉织物吸湿率却高于涤纶。对比主观实验结果发现:棉与棉内/涤外组合的湿舒适性高于涤纶和涤内/棉外组合,同客观实验中与皮肤接触的棉织物吸湿率高的结果相吻合,以此推断在织物具有相同或相近透湿率的情况时,与皮肤接触织物的吸湿性能是影响服装热湿舒适性的主要因素。In order to explore the cause of the difference in comfort between cotton and polyester fabrics, the paper studied two kinds of fabrics made of cotton and polyester with the same texture, similar thickness and areal density. On the basis of comparing the comfort indexes of the single layer of the two fabrics, the thermal and moisture performance indexes of the two fabrics were further compared when they were combined in different sequences(cotton inner+polyester outer combination and polyester inner+cotton outer combination). It finds that the overlappingcombination of fabrics can avoid the influence of the differences of the fabrics in the comparison process, and the combined thermal resistance, moisture resistance and moisture permeability of the two super imposed fabrics are basically the same or close to each other.However, the moisture absorption rate of cotton fabric in contact with skin is higher than that of polyester. Compared with subjective experimental results, the wet comfort of cotton and cotton inner+polyester outer combination is higher than that of polyester and polyester inner+cotton outer combination. This is consistent with the objective experiment result that cotton fabric in contact with skinis of higher moisture absorption rate. It is inferred that when the fabric has the same or similar moisture permeability, the moisture absorption performance of the fabric in contact with skin is the main factor affecting the thermal and wet comfort of clothing.
关 键 词:涤纶针织物 棉针织物 透湿率 吸湿率 热湿舒适性
分 类 号:TS941.19[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]
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