纯亚麻干湿纺纱交织及织物性能  

Pure flax interwoven by dry and wet spinning yarn and its properties

作　　者：李季媛 高春燕 陈红霞 彭海舰 曹巧丽 李佳蔚 郁崇文[2] LI Jiyuan;GAO Chunyan;CHEN Hongxia;PENG Haijian;CAO Qiaoli;LI Jiawei;YU Chongwen(Henan Pingmian Textile Group Co.,Ltd.,Pingdingshan 467000,Henan,China;Donghua University,Shanghai 201620,China)

机构地区：[1]河南平棉集团股份有限公司,河南平顶山467000 [2]东华大学,上海201620

出　　处：《上海纺织科技》2022年第9期47-50,共4页Shanghai Textile Science & Technology

基　　金：上海市现代纺织前沿科学研究基地项目资助(CARS-16);中国纺织工业联合会项目(2020-2022)。

摘　　要：研究了以干纺和湿纺亚麻纱交织制备纯亚麻机织物的方法。其中经纱利用亚麻落麻短纤维在棉纺转杯纺系统上进行纺纱,成纱细度为48.6 tex。相比湿纺纱,其条干更均匀,且缩短了工艺流程,降低了生产成本和能耗。探讨了经纬纱捻度、浆纱及织物织造过程中各道工序的参数配置,并对其性能进行测试分析。成品保留了传统湿纺亚麻织物的独特风格,手感爽滑、透气透湿、舒适性好,有利于亚麻纺织品的低碳和可持续发展。The preparation of pure flax woven fabric interwoven by dry spinning yarn and wet spinning yarn is studied. The warp yarn is spun on the cotton rotor spinning system with flax noil staple fiber, and the yarn fineness is 48.6 tex. Compared with the wet spinning, its sliver is more uniform, the process flow is shortened, and the production cost and energy consumption are reduced. The twist of warp and weft yarn, the parameter configuration of each process in sizing and fabric weaving are discussed, and the properties of fabric is tested and analyzed. The prepared flax fabric retains the unique style of traditional wet spinning flax fabric with smooth handle and properties of breathable, moisture-permeable and good comfort, which is conducive to the low-carbon and sustainable development of flax textile.

关 键 词：亚麻织物 干纺 转杯纺 湿纺 工艺参数 性能 

分 类 号：TS126[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]