《玄怪录》《续玄怪录》纺织服饰社会文化史研究  

Research on Social and Cultural History of Textile and Costume in Xuanguai Lu and The Sequel of Xuanguai Lu

作　　者：邢妤 XING Yu(College of Humanities,Donghua University,Shanghai,201620)

机构地区：[1]东华大学人文学院,上海201620

出　　处：《自然辩证法通讯》2022年第10期71-76,共6页Journal of Dialectics of Nature

基　　金：中央高校专项资金东华大学纺织文化研究基地项目(项目编号:21D111006)。

摘　　要：通过对《玄怪录》《续玄怪录》两书纺织服饰信息的整理分析,本文从服用制度、织物考辨以及名实解析等切入并为案例,补充和具化有唐一代纺织服饰的社会文化史内涵:一、唐代关于服色制度与民间用色具有一致性,彼此之间相互影响,民间服色的混乱多在女性服饰,原因主要是男性政治在整个社会的话语权;二、关于织物品种和度量的描写,足见唐代这些名词外延的扩大;三、华夏文明及其后的汉文明从来就没有歧视过裘服,相反裘服还被大用。同时,帔在唐代也用于男性仙道,并不仅局限女性。Through the collation and analysis of the textile and costume information in Xuanguai Lu and The Sequel of Xuanguai Lu,this study makes a case study based on the use of clothing,the identification of the fabric and the analysis of the name and object,which has complement and externalize the connotation of the social and cultural history of the textile and clothing of the Tang Dynasty.First,the system of clothing color in Tang Dynasty was consistent with folk color,besides they had a great influence on each other.Disordered folk color mainly appeared on women because of male domination in the whole society.Second,the description on kinds and measure of textile approved that these nouns appeared in Tang Dynasty were widely extended.Third,fur coat was never discriminated against in Huaxia and even Han nationality,on the contrary,the fur coat is still in great use.Pei was also used by male immortal besides females in Tang Dynasty.

关 键 词：《玄怪录》 《续玄怪录》 纺织服饰 社会文化 

分 类 号：J523.1[艺术—艺术设计]