罗布麻与棉混纺纱线及植物染面料的性能研究  

Study on properties of apocynum and cotton blended yarns and resultant fabrics by plant dyes

作　　者：张晓芳 葛化博 冯杰 夏建明[1,2] 沈梦月 万明 ZHANG Xiaofang;GE Huabo;FENG Jie;XIA Jianming;SHEN Mengyue;WAN Ming(Industrial College of Textile and Garment,Zhejiang Fashion Institute of Technology,Ningbo 315211,China;Ningbo Advanced Textile Technology&Fashion CAD Key Laboratory,Zhejiang Fashion Institute of Technology,Ningbo 315211,China;School of Textile Scienceand Engineering,Xi’an Polytechnic University,Xi’an 710048,China)

机构地区：[1]浙江纺织服装职业技术学院宁波现代纺织服装产业学院,宁波315211 [2]浙江纺织服装职业技术学院宁波市先进纺织技术与服装CAD重点实验室,宁波315211 [3]西安工程大学纺织科学与工程学院,西安710048

出　　处：《丝绸》2022年第10期49-57,共9页Journal of Silk

基　　金：宁波市局级项目(ZJFFZB-2020-102);宁波市“科技创新2025”重大专项项目(2021E002);宁波市先进纺织技术与服装CAD重点实验室开放基金项目(2022ZDSYS-A-003)。

摘　　要：为探究罗布麻/棉混纺纱线及其植物染面料的性能指标,本文设计了三种不同比例罗布麻与棉的混纺纱线,分别为20/80、30/70、40/60,采用植物染料对混纺纱线制成的针织面料进行染色,测试分析了不同混纺比对成纱质量和织物性能的影响及植物染色前后织物性能、抗菌性的变化。结果表明:随着罗布麻纤维含量的增加,混纺纱线断裂强力、断裂伸长率均逐渐降低,条干不匀率增加,毛羽指数变大;混纺织物顶破性、耐磨性逐渐降低,透气性、硬挺度和毛细效应逐渐增大,植物染料染色后织物顶破性、透气性和硬挺度较染色前均有不同程度的下降,耐磨性则明显增强。织物抗菌性随着罗布麻纤维含量的增加而变大,对大肠杆菌、金黄色葡萄球菌和白色念珠菌的抑菌率分别由59%增加到84%,62%增加到82%和30%增加到38%,但并未完全达到标准要求;而采用植物染料染色后,对大肠杆菌、金黄色葡萄球菌和白色念珠菌的抑菌率分别达到了97%、97%、82%及以上,全部达到标准要求,尤其是对白色念珠菌的抑菌率。The apocynum fiber is known as the"king of wild fiber"and its resultant fabrics have good softness and moisture absorption with wear comfortably and antibacterial health care.However,apocynum fiber is short,easy to be scattered in the spinning process,which leads to poor spinnability,particularly for pure fiber.In the current researches,blending with other fibers is a good way to solve the above problems in spinning.The performance of the blended fabric meets the requirements of consumption and is favored by consumers.The plant dye is a natural environmental protection dye that is antibacterial and anti-inflammatory.After plant dyeing,the fabric has a natural color with good antibacterial property.It can be clearly noted that the antibacterial finishing and dyeing can be completed in one step in the plant dyeing process."China’s 13^(th) Five-Year Development Plan for Textile Industry"was proposed to strengthen the research on the development and utilization of renewable fiber and biomass pigment dyeing.The study of apocynum and plant dyes not only meets the needs of the transformation and upgrading of textile industry,but also plays an important role in reducing dyeing and finishing wastewater and carbon emission.In order to obtain apocynum blended yarn and resultant fabrics by plant dyes,the spinning and weaving processes and their key parameters were optimized and the leuco compound dyeing method was used for dyeing.Firstly,three kinds of blending ratios of 20/80,30/70 and 40/60 respectively for apocynum/long-staple cotton were designed.The strength,evenness and hairiness index of the blended yarns were tested.After weaving,three kinds of plant dyes,sweet nectarine,olive green and chrysanthemum yellow were used to dye the fabrics with different blending ratios.The capillary effect,bursting property,air permeability,wear resistance and stiffness and flexibility of the fabric before and after dyeing were tested.Finally,the antibacterial property and antibacterial durability of the fabric before and after dyeing

关 键 词：罗布麻 长绒棉 混纺比 混纺纱线 混纺织物 植物染色 抗菌性 

分 类 号：TS124.5[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]