艺术社会学视域下西方早期蕾丝时尚的建构与传播研究  

Research on the construction and dissemination of early Western lace fashion fromthe perspective of art sociology

作　　者：杨秋华[1] YANG Qiuhua(School of Art and Design,Shenzhen Polytechnic,Shenzhen 518055,China)

机构地区：[1]深圳职业技术学院艺术设计学院,深圳518055

出　　处：《丝绸》2022年第10期132-138,共7页Journal of Silk

基　　金：江苏省教育厅高校哲学社会科学项目(2021SJA0426);深圳职业技术学院人文社会科学重点课题项目(6021310006S)。

摘　　要：蕾丝作为一种不可或缺的服饰元素和恒久服饰时尚的演绎者,从多个方面承载了各个时期社会价值、社会变革、社会审美的印迹,也影响了近代和现代蕾丝时尚的发展进程。文章运用艺术社会学、图像学、文献学的研究方法,从宗教信仰的物化载体到“人性觉醒”的象征,以及欧洲宫廷生活与蕾丝文化的传播与拓展两方面,对西方早期蕾丝时尚的形成、传播和发展历史进行了研究和探讨。从艺术社会学的角度来看,西方早期蕾丝时尚在不同历史阶段和不同国度的起始、逆转、辉煌,不仅取决于蕾丝纹样及工艺的精妙华贵,更取决于统治阶层炫耀财富及宫廷生活、时尚语境建构和传播的需要。Lace originated in Flanders in southwest Europe in the 14^(th) century.From the end of the 15^(th) century to the early 16^(th) century,lace decoration became a symbol of European royal family,aristocracy and power,and became popular in all classes of Europe.In the 17^(th) and 18^(th) centuries,due to the prevalence of Baroque and Rococo art,lace fashion quickly swept across Europe and even the world,and has been popular until now.As a classic,romantic and special fashion clothing material,lace has been endowed with different social and cultural significance and fashion symbols in different historical stages of the West.As an indispensable clothing element and the performer of permanent clothing fashion,it carries the imprint of social values,social changes and social aesthetics in various periods from many aspects,and also affects the development process of modern and modern lace fashion.This research uses the research methods of art sociology,iconology and philology,from the materialized carrier of religious belief to the symbol of"human awakening".And from the European court life and the spread and expansion of lace culture,this paper studies and discusses the formation,spread and development history of early Western lace fashion.The research shows that the origination of Western lace in the 14^(th) century was driven by strong religious beliefs,and it was also the result of Flanders’superior overseas trade domination,prosperous textile trade and diversified urban culture.Lace fashion also experienced the enlightenment of Gothic style in the development process from the 14^(th) to the 18^(th) century,as well as the influence and inspiration given by Baroque style and Rococo style after the Renaissance.In the changes of lace patterns,the use of materials and technological innovation,in addition to religious concepts,economic development,artistic trends and other major social factors,the desire for power of princes and nobles and the pursuit of court luxury life have also become the decisive driving force for

关 键 词：西方 手工蕾丝 时尚建构 文化传播 服饰纹样 艺术社会学 

分 类 号：TS941.11[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]