纸样技术在全成形斜裙编织工艺中的应用  

Application of paper pattern technology in knitting process of fully formed inclined skirt

作　　者：徐艳华[1] 袁新林[1] XU Yanhua;YUAN Xinlin(School of Art and Design,Changzhou University,Changzhou,Jiangsu 213164,China)

机构地区：[1]常州大学美术与设计学院,江苏常州213164

出　　处：《纺织学报》2022年第10期141-147,共7页Journal of Textile Research

基　　金：教育部人文社会科学研究项目(18YJA760068);江苏省教育科学“十三五”规划课题资助项目(D/2018/01/78);江苏省社会科学基金项目(17YSD001)。

摘　　要：为解决全成形斜裙样衣尺寸与客户要求之间误差过大问题,分析了全成形接片结构、编织工艺及尺寸误差产生原因,将梭织服装纸样技术运用于全成形斜裙纸样绘制及其腰口和下摆弧线长度获取中,运用扇形切展法和任意角度扇环法绘制纸样,以纸样剪移法和扇环弧长计算法获取弧线长度,并对2种纸样、2种弧长进行比较分析,演绎出更适用于全成形斜裙腰口和下摆弧线长度的直接理论计算方法。研究表明:扇形切展法与纸样剪移法的组合可用于获取斜裙腰口和下摆弧线的准确长度,而任意角度扇环法与扇环弧长计算法的组合,更可直接理论计算出斜裙腰口和下摆弧线长度,无需复杂而繁琐的纸样绘制、剪切和转移,缩短了试样时间,提高了试样效率。In order to tackle the large error between the size of the fully formed inclined skirt sample and the customer′s requirements,the fully formed panels structure,knitting process and the causes of the size error were analyzed.The paper pattern technology used for woven garments is applied to the pattern drawing and the arc length acquisition of the waist and hem for the fully formed inclined skirt.The pattern was drawn by fan-shaped cutting-spreading method and arbitrary angle fan-ring method.The arc length was obtained by the paper pattern cutting-moving method and the fan-ring arc length calculation method.The comparisons between the two types of paper patterns and between the two arcs lengths were carried out.A direct theoretical calculation method that is more suitable for the acquisition of the arc length was deduced.The results show that the combination of fan-shaped cutting-spreading method and paper pattern cutting-moving method can be used to obtain the accurate arc length,while the combination of arbitrary angle fan-ring method and fan-ring arc length calculation method can directly calculate the arc length without complex and cumbersome paper pattern drawing,cutting and moving.The sampling time is shortened and the efficiency is improved.

关 键 词：纸样技术 全成形服装 斜裙 编织工艺 接片工艺 

分 类 号：TS184.5[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计] TS186.3[轻工技术与工程—纺织科学与工程]