“仿梭织”风格针织服装的设计与开发  

Design and development of"imitation woven"style knitted clothing

作　　者：冯宝以 陈于依澜 刘晓刚[1] FENG Baoyi;CHEN Yuyilan;LIU Xiaogang(College of Fashion and Design,Donghua University,Shanghai 200051,China)

机构地区：[1]东华大学服装与艺术设计学院,上海200051

出　　处：《毛纺科技》2022年第10期9-13,共5页Wool Textile Journal

摘　　要：针对服装市场上针织服装产品造型相较梭织服装不够挺括的问题,提出了开发“仿梭织”风格针织服装。以生物基长丝(粘胶长丝)和锦纶DTY的混纺纱线及透明锦纶丝为原料,在日本岛精公司生产的SVR 123SP型针织横机上编织集圈衬纬组织针织面料。测试并对比了梭织面料、普通针织面料、“仿梭织”风格针织面料的抗弯刚度。设计开发了一款“仿梭织”风格针织大衣,成果作品平整、挺括。测试结果表明,所开发的“仿梭织”风格针织面料其抗弯刚度明显优于普通针织面料,更接近梭织面料的抗弯刚度,具有“仿梭织”风格,为针织服装设计与研究提供了新的观点和思路。To solve the problem that the appearance of knitted clothing was not crisp enough compared with that of woven clothing,an"imitation woven"style knitted clothing were proposed to develop.Therefore,in this paper,the blended yarn(bio based filament and nylon DTY)and transparent nylon yarn were used as raw materials to knit tuck with laying in knitted fabric on SVR 123SP flat knitting machine produced by Shimadzu company in Japan.The bending rigidity of woven fabric,ordinary knitted fabric and imitation woven style knitted fabric were tested and compared.Finally,the design method of"imitation woven"style knitted fabric was put forward,and a kind of imitation woven style knitted coat was designed and developed.The finished product is flat and straight.And the test results show that the bending rigidity of the developed knitted fabric is obviously better than that of the ordinary knitted fabric,which is closer to that of the woven fabric.It indicates that it has imitation woven style.This research provides a new perspective and ideas for the design and research of knitted clothing.

关 键 词：针织服装 仿梭织风格 集圈衬纬组织 横机针织 

分 类 号：TS184.1[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]