粗纺提花毛/涤织物的设计与开发  

Design and development of woollen jacquard wool/polyester fabric

作　　者：徐旭凡[1] 韩万里[1] 周卫忠 XU Xufan;HAN Wanli;ZHOU Weizhong(College of Materials and Textile Engineering,Jiaxing University,Jiaxing,Zhejiang 314001,China;Tongxiang Yide Textile Co.,Ltd.,Tongxiang,Zhejiang 314512,China)

机构地区：[1]嘉兴学院材料与纺织工程学院,浙江嘉兴314001 [2]桐乡市易德纺织有限公司,浙江嘉兴314512

出　　处：《毛纺科技》2022年第10期27-30,共4页Wool Textile Journal

基　　金：浙江省自然科学基金项目(LY22E060005)。

摘　　要：为提升粗纺毛织物的时尚性,满足市场对个性化产品的需求,文章研发了一种不同于传统粗纺织物外观效果的粗纺提花毛/涤织物。选用38.5 tex×2羊毛纱与22.2 dtex涤长丝双包金银丝线为2组纬纱,8.3 tex涤长丝为经纱,设计织物经纬密度、组织结构、织物图案纹样、提花织造工艺,并用织纹CAD软件进行提花工艺设计,形成电子提花机可识别的电子纹板。优化上机工艺参数,在带有电子提花龙头的剑杆织机上织造出粗纺毛/涤提花呢绒坯布,并通过缩绒和拉毛整理,形成新颖独特的粗纺提花毛/涤织物,提高了产品附加值。In order to improve the fashion of woollen fabrics and meet the market demand for personalized products,a woollen jacquard wool/polyester fabric was developed,which had different appearance from traditional woollen fabrics.38.5 tex×2 wool yarn and 22.2 dtex polyester filament double-wrapped gold and silver thread were chosen as two sets of weft yarns,and the 8.3 tex polyester filaments were selected as warp yarns.Jacquard board information that can be recognized by electronic jacquard machine were designed with jacquard weaving CAD software by inputting fabric density,structure,pattern and technology parameters.By optimizing the process parameters on the machine,the jacquard woollen/polyester grey fabric was woven on the rapier loom with the electronic jacquard faucet,and the new and unique woollen jacquard/polyester fabric was formed by milling and brushing finishing,which increased the product added value.

关 键 词：粗纺提花毛织物 纹织CAD 纬二重组织 大提花工艺 

分 类 号：TS136[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]