宋代服装中的印金风格及成因探析  

Exploring the Style of Gold Printing in Song Dynasty Clothing and Its Causes

作　　者：王伶俐 陈晓鹏[1] 黄照琪 严晓燕 WANG Lingli;CHEN Xiaopeng;HUANG Zhaoqi;YAN Xiaoyan(College of Fashion Technology,Zhongyuan University of Technology,Zhengzhou 450000 China)

机构地区：[1]中原工学院服装学院,郑州450000

出　　处：《服饰导刊》2022年第5期55-61,共7页Fashion Guide

基　　金：河南高等学校哲学社会科学基础研究重大项目(2022-JCZD-34)。

摘　　要：[研究意义]宋代服装印金呈现出华丽和含蓄两种对立风格兼具的特征,理清其成因和实现方法对于深刻理解宋代服装的文化内涵、把握印金技术在风格需求下的应变更新具有十分重要的意义。[研究方法]以出土服装实物为依据,通过对比典型案例、参考史料文献、结合社会环境分析,对宋代服装印金风格与成因进行了探讨。[研究结果与结论]研究认为:宋代服装印金的风格特点是由经济、律法、文化三个方面的限制与驱动决定的,并通过对新型印金工艺的广泛应用得以实现。宋代饰金服装的平民化、销金禁令的限制、士人文化的审美影响等,为服装印金风格的形成奠定了基调。在需求和限制的双重作用下,“印金敷彩”技术应运而生,成为宋代特有的印金工艺,将印金与彩绘协调地结合在一起,使华丽而含蓄的印金风格最终得以实现。Clothing gold printing in the Song dynasty is a combination of two opposing styles,both gorgeous and implicit,which makes the Song dynasty gold printing garments unique and distinctive in the history of Chinese clothing gold printing.Most of the existing studies on the Song dynasty gold printing focus on the categories and evolution of gold printing patterns,the consumption status and aesthetic value of gold printing garments,and there are few discussions on their styles.In order to make the appearance of the Song dynasty clothing gold printing more comprehensive and clear,the characteristics of the Song dynasty clothing gold printing style and the influencing factors are studied.It is of great importance to understand the causes and meth⁃ods of its realization in order to deeply understand the cultural connotation of the Song clothing and to grasp the adaptation and renewal of the printing technology under the style demand.This paper proposes that the gold-printing style of the Song dynasty clothing was both gorgeous and subtle,and later confirms the view by analyzing the design and color of gold-printing patterns in gold-printed clothing.In order to clarify the reasons for the formation of the style,the economic consumption,legal regulations and cultural and aesthetic characteristics of the Song Dynasty are summarized according to authoritative historical documents,and the characteristics of excavated objects are combined to sort out and analyze the causes of the gold-printing style.Based on the excavated clothing objects,we summarize the Song Dynasty clothing printing gold style by comparing typical cases and refer⁃ring to historical documents,and discuss the causes and significance of its formation by combining the analysis of the social envi⁃ronment with the method of mutual evidence of cultural relics and historical theory.The final conclusion is that the style of the Song dynasty garment gold printing shows the characteristics of both gorgeous and subtle,and the performance of gold printing patterns

关 键 词：印金 宋代服装 销金令 印金敷彩 

分 类 号：TS941.61[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]