改革开放以来中国男式T恤变迁研究(1978-2021年)  

Research on the Changes of Chinese Men's T-shirts Since the Reform and Opening Up(1978-2021)

作　　者：库偲雨 刘勇 李斌[2] KU Siyu;LIU Yong;LI Bin(School of Fashion Design,Wuhan Textile University,Wuhan 430073 China;Wuhan Textile and Garment Digital Engineering Technology Research Center,Wuhan Textile University,Wuhan 430073 China)

机构地区：[1]武汉纺织大学服装学院,武汉430073 [2]武汉纺织大学武汉纺织服装数字化工程技术研究中心,武汉430073

出　　处：《服饰导刊》2022年第5期92-98,共7页Fashion Guide

基　　金：国家社科基金艺术学项目(2020BG03720)。

摘　　要：[研究方法]针对中国改革开放以来男式T恤变迁的问题,运用文献研究与实物分析的方法,得到了中国男式T恤从传统内衣的形式逐渐向多元化、功能化、中性化方向发展的结论。[研究结果与结论]研究表明:①男士T恤的款式由内衣向外衣转变,其类别从单一化向多元化发展,如运动T恤、广告T恤等,款式细节变化主要来自于袖型、领口、下摆处;②男士T恤面料从最初单一的织物设计演变为如今综合工艺技术带来的多种面料组合设计,其功能可满足消费者不同的需求;③T恤图案色彩是展现男士风格魅力之处的关键点,随着时代的发展,其色彩呈多样化趋势,男性风格从强化性别向弱化性别转变,图案亦往中性化发展。究其男士T恤变迁的原因,主要有休闲服饰的流行、多元化商业营销、审美观念的多元化等因素推动着中国男士T恤的发展。In view of the changes of men's T-shirts since China's reform and opening up,using the methods of literature re⁃search and physical analysis,this paper makes an in-depth development from the perspective of art and technology,science and culture,and comes to the conclusion that Chinese men's T-shirts are gradually developing from the form of traditional under⁃wear to diversification,functionality and neutrality.Research shows:(1)Early men's T-shirts were introduced into China and were not popular products.With the development of the times,the style of men's T-shirt has been transformed from inside to out⁃side and has become a popular dress.In the 1980s,men's T-shirts were conservative and single in style,such as white under⁃wear T-shirts and simple short sleeved round neck T-shirts.In the later stage,there was a"cultural shirt".With the emancipa⁃tion of the mind,people's ideas have changed.The fashionable leisure style in the 1990s has promoted the gradual individualiza⁃tion of men's T-shirt styles,such as sports T-shirts,and men's T-shirts with long sleeves and V-necks.With the advent of the 21st century,men's T-shirts have a variety of styles to meet the needs of different age groups,such as sleeveless T-shirts,short sleeved T-shirts,long sleeved T-shirts,etc.,and even their functions meet commercial needs,such as advertising T-shirts,tour⁃ism T-shirts,etc.Since the reform and opening up,its categories have developed from simplification to diversification.The changes of style details mainly come from the sleeve type,neckline and hem;(2)Men's T-shirt fabric has evolved from a single fabric design to a variety of fabric combination design brought by comprehensive technology.Its function can meet the different needs of consumers.Since the reform and opening up,China's men's T-shirt fabric has been accepted by consumers from the initial to the current different fabric properties to meet the needs of consumers.From passive acceptance to consumers'indepen⁃dent choice,it can be found that China's T-shir

关 键 词：改革开放 男式T恤 款式 图案 变迁 

分 类 号：TS941.12[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]