单向斜纹织物避免洗后扭曲的优化生产工艺  

Optimization of the production process for unidirectional twill fabric to avoid twisting after washing

作　　者：孙月玲 陈鑫涛 梅海霞 李伟林 SUN Yueling;CHEN Xintao;MEI Haixia;LI Weilin(Jiangsu Lianfa Institute of High-end Textile Technology,Nantong 226600,China)

机构地区：[1]江苏联发高端纺织技术研究院,江苏南通226600

出　　处：《染整技术》2022年第10期37-39,共3页Textile Dyeing and Finishing Journal

摘　　要：单向斜纹梭织物制作的面料或服装经过水洗后,都会以不同程度沿着斜纹方向发生扭曲,尤其是组织浮点长、经纬密度低的规格,发生扭曲的程度更大,这会严重影响面料的服用性能,并且导致客户的投诉和不满意。对洗后扭曲形成原因进行分析,从纱线捻度、前处理工艺、工艺设计、整理工艺等方面综合考虑,进行工艺优化,有效地控制洗后扭曲,指导大货生产。The fabric or garment made of unidirectional twill woven fabric will be twisted in different degrees along the twill direction after washing,especially the specifications with long tissue floating-point and low warp and weft density will be twisted to a greater extent,which will seriously affect the wearability of the fabric and cause customer’s complaints and dissatisfaction.The causes of twists after washing are analyzed and the process is optimized from yarn twist,pretreat⁃ment process,process design,and finishing process,so as to control the twist after washing effectively and guide the pro⁃duction of big goods.

关 键 词：单向斜纹 洗后扭曲 纱线捻系数 工艺设计 纱线定形 

分 类 号：TS192[轻工技术与工程—纺织化学与染整工程]