生成弧形翻驳领造型的技术研究  

Research on the Modeling Technology of Creating the Arc-shaped Lapel

作　　者：杨洁 庹武[1] 赵静秒[1] YANG Jie;TUO Wu;ZHAO Jingmiao(Fashion Institute,Zhongyuan University of Technology,Zhengzhou 450007,China)

机构地区：[1]中原工学院服装学院,河南郑州450007

出　　处：《纺织科技进展》2022年第10期12-16,共5页Progress in Textile Science & Technology

基　　金：河南省高等学校重点科研项目(19A540004,23A540007)。

摘　　要：针对弧形翻驳领的结构生成问题,以弧形翻驳领为研究对象,通过对弧形翻驳领生成技术的理论分析和样本试验,将实现弧形翻驳领造型的方法细分为断缝法、省道法和归拔工艺法,设计与3种方法对应的3款创意弧形翻驳领,分析其结构设计难点并制作样衣进行验证,总结归纳出3种方法的技术特点及适用性,为服装行业中的制版师、设计师在协调弧形翻驳领型与款式造型的关系提供理论参考。In view of the structural generation problem of arc lapels,taking the arc lapels as the research object,through the theoretical analysis and sample test of the arc lapel generation technology,the method of realizing the arc lapel shape was subdivided into broken seam method,provincial road method and return-drawing process method.The three creative curved lapels corresponding to the three methods were designed.The structural design difficulties were analyzed and the prototype was made for verification.The technical characteristics and the applicability of three methods were summarized,which provided theoretical references for plate makers and designers in coordinating the relationship between curved lapel collars and style modeling.

关 键 词：弧形翻驳领 断缝法 省道法 归拔工艺 结构设计 

分 类 号：TS941.6[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]