真丝锦纶交织细针距针织面料的开发  

Development of Silk Nylon Interweaved Fine Gauge Knitted Fabric

作　　者：陈涛[1] 郑丹[1] 陈武彪 CHEN Tao;ZHENG Dan;CHEN Wubiao(Sichuan Academy of Silk Sciences Co.,Ltd.,Chengdu 610031,China)

机构地区：[1]四川省丝绸科学研究院有限公司,四川成都610031

出　　处：《纺织科技进展》2022年第10期31-34,共4页Progress in Textile Science & Technology

基　　金：2021年四川省科技计划项目(2021JDZH0006)。

摘　　要：采用27/29 D桑蚕丝和30 D/(24 F)半光锦纶并捻复合丝,在42 G/(25.4 cm)的双面机上开发细针距真丝锦纶交织面料。分析并捻复合丝的工艺设计及生产流程,介绍编织工艺设计及设备调试参数,阐述练染工艺及参数。研发的细针距真丝锦纶交织面料平整滑爽、手感柔软、外观光泽靓丽,克服了真丝针织物易变型勾丝、起毛起球的不足。面料不仅具有很好的服用性能,还降低了真丝针织面料的成本。Using 27/29 D mulberry silk and 30 D/(24 F)semi-light nylon composite silk,fine gauge silk nylon woven fabric was developed on the 42 G/25.4 cm double faced machine.The process design and production process of composite yarn were analyzed.The fabric weaving process and equipment debugging parameters were introduced.The dyeing process and parameters were expounded.The fine gauge silk nylon woven fabric was smooth,soft and shiny.The shortages of silk knitted fabric that were easy to deform,snag and pill was overcome.The fabric not only had very good wearability,but also reduced the cost of silk knitted fabric.

关 键 词：桑蚕丝 锦纶 并捻丝 细针距 针织面料 

分 类 号：TS184.9[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]