双面艾德莱斯织造工艺及设备的探索与实践  

Exploration and practice of double-faced Aidelaisi weaving technology and equipment

作　　者：井一凡 木拉丁·约瑟尔 乔宏威 刘瑞[1] JING Yifan;MULADING Yueseer;QIAO Hongwei;LIU Rui(College of Textile and Clothing,Xinjiang University,Urumqi 830000,China)

机构地区：[1]新疆大学纺织与服装学院,乌鲁木齐830000

出　　处：《丝绸》2022年第11期17-25,共9页Journal of Silk

基　　金：国家级大学生创业训练计划项目(202010755009X)。

摘　　要：传统艾德莱斯具有优美的图案与艳丽的色彩,但其制作工艺原始,织物组织结构单一,以至于在市场中难以受到消费者的青睐。本文基于其织物组织结构,设计出了新型双面艾德莱斯,并论述了如何据此改造小样织机,使其可以适应双面艾德莱斯的织造要求,同时使该技术能够推广应用到实际生产中去;其次,通过研究双面艾德莱斯的织造工艺,攻克了织造小样时遇到的操作难题,总结出了许多实用的经验与技巧。最终成功织得双面艾德莱斯,同时也阐明了双面艾德莱斯产品的实际应用价值,这些尝试为其实际推广与应用奠定了理论与实践基础。Aidelaisi is a unique clothing fabric for ethnic minorities in Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region.It has beautiful patterns,bright colors and strong local ethnic characteristics.With a long history,it is known as the"living fossil of the Silk Road".Since 2015,the People’s Government of Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region has held a series of large-scale activities such as"Aidelaisi Going Out of the Tianshan Mountains"and"Aidelaisi Showcasing Kunlun"for successive years,aiming to make Aidelaisi a business card with rich regional and national characteristics in Xinjiang,and help Aidelaisi go to the whole country and the world.However,the production of Aidelaisi is still dominated by manual workshops today,using the production technology of the 1970s and 1980s.There is no modern dyeing and weaving technology and inspection standards,and there is only one irregular warp satin pattern for the woven fabrics structure,with insufficient innovation.Limited by the backwardness of its traditional production process and the single type of fabric weave,and coupled with the style of its finished products being contrary to the aesthetics of today’s young people,there is a decline of the development of Aidelaisi.Thus,based on the image of traditional Aidelaisi elements,combined with the fabric weave of traditional Aidelaisi,a new type of double-faced Aidelaisi is designed,which aims to enrich the variety of Aidelaisi products and save this gradual traditional culture that has faded out of people’s sight.Based on the traditional weaving process and equipment of Aidelaisi,a new set of practical weaving process and equipment for double-faced Aidelaisi has been developed to overcome the bottlenecks and obstacles of related processes and equipment in weaving double-faced Aidelaisi on the prototype loom in batches,and in-depth and systematic exploration and attempts have been made from theory and practice,laying a solid foundation for the practical promotion and application of new double-faced Aidelaisi products.Firstly,the fabric we

关 键 词：新疆 艾德莱斯 经二重组织 缎纹组织 织造工艺 织造设备 织物组织 小样织机 

分 类 号：TS145.4[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]