针织全成形服装工艺转换模型构建与应用  

Construction and application of a process conversion model for fully-formed knitted garments

作　　者：巫晓雯 詹必钦 丛洪莲 吴光军 WU Xiaowen;ZHAN Biqin;CONG Honglian;WU Guangjun(Engineering Research Center for Knitting Technology,Ministry of Education,Jiangnan University,Wuxi 214122,China)

机构地区：[1]江南大学教育部针织技术工程研究中心,江苏无锡214122

出　　处：《丝绸》2022年第11期82-88,共7页Journal of Silk

基　　金：中央高校基本科研业务费专项资金资助项目(JUSRP52013B);国家自然科学基金项目(61902150)。

摘　　要：为实现服装版型快速精准转换为全成形针织工艺,文章分析全成形工艺转换模型,包括大身、肩宽、袖身连接和领口工艺尺寸转换规律及方法,并以全成形双层结构针织服装实现为例,探讨其从初样到封样工艺尺寸转换实现,研究双层连接处工艺转换,验证转换方法可行性。研究表明,采用折线色块转换法实现全成形工艺尺寸转换,即以折线段为基准实现线段左侧转换、线段右侧转换、线段上侧转换、线段下侧转换四种方向转换;针对双层结构服装,双层连接处采用收放针法或叠针法实现工艺转换,可为服装版型快速转换成尺寸精确的全成形工艺版型提供方法与指导。Full-formed clothing has the advantages of integrated forming,raw material saving and high knitting efficiency,but its pattern and knitting process design are quite different from the traditional sweater process design,and there will be some errors between the size of the first sample and the target size.It needs one or several rounds of size process conversion and correction to produce clothing that meets the requirements of the target size error.In the process of process conversion and size correction,we should not only consider the accuracy of ready-made clothing size,but also consider the compatible knitting stability of shoulder sleeve,body sleeve,collar and other parts.We should comprehensively consider the process principles of full-formed body sleeve retraction and release needle,shoulder sleeve ratio knitting,collar local knitting and so on.In order to realize the fast and accurate conversion of garment form to full-formed knitting process,this paper establishes a full-formed garment process conversion model,including the size conversion law and method of body and joint.Based on this process conversion model,taking a fully-formed double-layer structure knitted garment as an example,this paper discusses the realization of the process size conversion from the initial sample to the sealing sample,applies the process model to the process size correction of the shoulder,sleeve body joint,collar and joint,respectively,compares the process size of the initial sample and the target process size,and finally verifies the feasibility of this conversion method.On this basis,the article uses the broken line color block correction method to modify the size of the color code pattern of the full-formed compression drawing,and uses the retracting and releasing needle correction method and the stacking needle correction method to modify the size of the joint of the full-formed double-layer structure clothing.The research shows that the full forming process size conversion can be achieved by using the broken line color blo

关 键 词：全成形 针织服装 工艺转换 工艺尺寸 双层结构 横编 

分 类 号：TS186.3[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]