骨针与“线”状软材料的起源演变关系及过程  

Relationship and process of the origin and evolution of bone needles andthread-shaped soft materials

作　　者：陶园 王其才 刘桠楠[1] 朱琪[1] TAO Yuan;WANG Qicai;LIU Yanan;ZHU Qi(High Fashion Womenswear Institute,Hangzhou Vocational&Technical College,Hangzhou 310018,China;School ofTextile Science and Engineering(International Institute of Silk),Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou 310018,China)

机构地区：[1]杭州职业技术学院达利女装学院,杭州310018 [2]浙江理工大学纺织科学与工程学院(国际丝绸学院),杭州310018

出　　处：《丝绸》2022年第11期126-132,共7页Journal of Silk

基　　金：国家社会科学基金青年项目(19CKG002)。

摘　　要：骨针是古老而经典的纺织相关工具,是纺织材料与技术起源研究的一部分。骨针的使用需以合适的“线”状软材料的存在为前提,所以骨针很大程度上是纺纱加工技术起源与进步的体现。文章基于石器时代出土骨针实物和人类生产力水平发展规律,论证了骨针从单一的打孔工具到成为集打孔(穿针)和连接(引线)为一体的复合工具的起源演变过程。同时,结合针与线发展的先后关系,论证与梳理了“线”状软材料从直接取之自然的植物茎叶到经过集束、加捻等加工逐渐演变为真正意义上“线”的过程。文章为研究原始纺织材料和加工技术提供了新的补充与佐证。Bone needles,as ancient and classic tools related to textile,are part of the research on the origin of textile materials and technology.The use of bone needles is based on the existence of suitable thread-shaped soft materials,so bone needles,to a large extent,are the embodiment of the origin and progress of spinning processing technology.Based on the bone needles unearthed in the Stone Age and the law of development of human productive forces,we reasonably demonstrate the origin and the evolution process of bone needles from mere punching tools to composite tools integrating punching(threading a needle)and connecting(leading a thread).And combined with the relationship of successive development of needles and threads,we demonstrate and sort the gradual evolution process of thread-shaped soft materials from the original natural plant stems and leaves to threads in its true sense,which are processed by bundling,twisting and so on.We provide a new supplement and evidence for the study of primitive textile materials and processing technology.So far,1619 bone needles have been unearthed from 138 prehistoric sites in China,15 of which originated from the Paleolithic Age.We analyze the morphological characteristics of the excavated bone needles,deducing that bone needles originated from drilling tools and drilling needs,and digging grooves in the needle body might be the initial way of leading a thread.However,slotted needles had a poor grip on the thread,so the fineness of the thread-shaped soft materials gradually diminished.To make the thread-shaped be self-locked in the groove of the needle,it was necessary to gradually reduce the groove opening and increase the groove depth until the slotted needles developed into bone needles with a closed round hole.And in the long-term production practice,the style of unearthed bone needles was finally formed.The origin and development of bone needles,and the realization of punching and leading a thread must be spearheaded by the emergence of thread-shaped soft materials.Meanwh

关 键 词：骨针 “线”状软材料 起源 集束 加捻 打孔 

分 类 号：TS101[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程] K876.9[轻工技术与工程—纺织科学与工程]