麻/棉垫织面料设计与生产  

Design and Production of Cotton/Linen Fabric Based on Pad Weaving Mode

作　　者：佟昀 TONG Yun(Jiangsu College of Engineering and Technology,Nantong 226007)

机构地区：[1]江苏工程职业技术学院,江苏南通226007

出　　处：《纺织科学与工程学报》2022年第4期71-74,81,共5页Journal of Textile Science & Engineering

基　　金：江苏先进纺织工程中心建设项目(苏政办发[2014]22号)。

摘　　要：为了将面料的功能性和装饰性和服用性相融合,研究将棉/亚麻股线作为功能纱沿着纬向,一部分垫织在棉织物双层组织的上下层之间,实现导湿、散热功能性,减少刺痒感的舒适性,另一部分浮于织物表面形成纬起花装饰效应,适宜夏季贴身穿着。垫织区的芯纬采用较高线密度、较大纬向紧度。布边组织交织频次与双层地组织要接近,避免“荷叶边”和布身“纬弧”疵点,浆纱侧重被覆毛羽,停经片采用山形穿法,喷气引纬时间和气压要兼顾芯线和地纱特征。结果生产出了棉/麻垫织纬起花组织的功能性面料,结论是通过垫织组织和纬起花组织可将功能性纱线合理隐藏和显露,兼具服用舒适性、功能性和装饰性,例如也可将金属纤维纱局部垫织,余部纬起花,兼具电磁屏蔽和装饰效应,不影响服用性。In order to integrate the functionality,decoration and wearability of the fabric,the cotton/linen blended ply was used as the functional yarn.Along the weft direction,one part was padded between the upper and lower layers of the double-layer structure of the cotton fabric to realize the functions of moisture conduction and heat dissipation and reduce feeling of itching.The other part floated on the surface of the fabric to form the weft figure effect,fitting for summer cloth.The core weft in the cushion weaving area adopted higher-line density and greater weft tightness.The interweaving frequency of selvage should be close to that of double-layer ground structure to avoid“Ruffle edge”and“weft arc”of cloth body.The sizing should focus on covered hairiness.The drop wire draw in mode should adopt the mountain shaped threading method.The air-jet weft insertion time and air pressure should take both core and ground yarns into account.As a result,the functional fabric of cotton/linen cushion weft figure weave was produced.The conclusion was that the functional yarn could be reasonably hidden and exposed through cushion weave and weft figure weave,which had the characteristics of comfort,function and decoration.For example,the metal fiber yarn could also be partially padded and the rest of the weft was flowered,which had both electromagnetic shielding and decorative effects and did not affect the wearability.

关 键 词：双层 垫织 功能纤维 纬起花 纬向紧度 混纬 喷织 

分 类 号：TS106[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程]