一片式多穿型服装创新设计研究  

Study on one-piece structure multi-wearing garments innovative design

作　　者：万芳[1] 马彦君 WAN Fang;MA Yanjun(College of Fashion and Design,Donghua University,Shanghai 200051,China)

机构地区：[1]东华大学服装与艺术设计学院,上海200051

出　　处：《毛纺科技》2022年第11期45-52,共8页Wool Textile Journal

摘　　要：一片式服装历史悠久,为探究其构成原理及设计方法,从服装制作及其构成方式出发,对古代至当代的一片式服装进行了分类研究,发现人体的支撑点、支撑部位是影响一片式服装结构的核心因素。进而通过合理的结构设计,提出可使一片式服装具备多穿型功能的创新假设。通过分析大量结构设计实验,归纳出一片式多穿型服装结构设计的3种方法:开口置换法、重组重构法和融合创新法。其中,开口置换法又可细分为位移置换法、交换置换法和替换置换法;重组重构法包含扭转重构法和闭合重构法;而融合创新法则是将开口置换法和重组重构法进行综合运用的结构设计方法。该研究成果扩展了一片式服装在可持续设计方面的可能性。One-piece structure has a long history.In order to explore iTScomposition principle and design method,a classification study of one-piece clothing from ancient to contemporary times was conducted from the clothing production and iTScomposition.It is found that the supporting point and the supporting part of the human body are the core factors affecting the structure of one-piece clothing.The innovative hypothesis that one-piece garment can have multi-wear function through reasonable structure design is put forward.Based on the analysis of a large number of structural design experiment results,three methods of one-piece multi-wear garment are summarized:the opening replacement method,the reorganization and reconstruction method and the fusion use method.Among them,the opening replacement method is subdivided into displacement replacement method,exchange replacement method and substitution replacement method;the reorganization and reconstruction method include two design methods,namely torsional reconstruction method and closed reconstruction method;the fusion use method is a structural design method that combines the opening replacement method and the reorganization and reconstruction method.The research resulTSexpand the possibilities of one-piece structure in sustainable design.

关 键 词：一片式服装 多穿型服装 结构设计 结构创新 

分 类 号：TS941.17[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]