两种红色植物染料在丝织物上的染色效果分析  

Color Analysis of Two Red Plant Dyes on Silk Fabrics

作　　者：张晓莉[1,2] 张宇杰 郝克倩 ZHANG Xiao-li;ZHANG Yu-jie;HAO Ke-qian(College of Textile,Zhongyuan University of Technology,Zhengzhou 450007,China;Collaborative Innovation Center of Textile and Clothing in Henan Province,Zhengzhou 450007,China;School of Textile Science and Engineering,Tiangong University,Tianjing 300387,China)

机构地区：[1]中原工学院纺织学院,郑州450007 [2]纺织服装产业河南省协同创新中心,郑州450007 [3]天津工业大学纺织科学与工程学院,天津300387

出　　处：《北京服装学院学报（自然科学版）》2022年第3期14-18,共5页Journal of Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology：Natural Science Edition

基　　金：河南省科技攻关项目(182102210514)。

摘　　要：采用直接水煮法,从苏木和红藤中提取红色植物染料用于丝织物的染色。研究了染料用量、染色次数和媒染剂种类对其颜色特征值和水洗牢度的影响。实验结果表明:随着染料用量和染色次数的增加两种植物染料的染色K/S值显著增加,且苏木色素的增加幅度比红藤色素的大。苏木色素在丝织物上经多次直接染色可呈红棕色调,且对媒染剂的种类比较敏感,用铝盐预媒染可得绛红色,铁盐预媒染可得黑褐色;而红藤色素在丝织物上的直接染色呈浅红棕色调,用铝盐预媒染色相变化较小,铁盐预媒染呈深灰色;采用预媒染工艺可以有效改善两种红色植物染料染制丝织物的褪变色牢度,用硫酸亚铁预媒染可使褪变色牢度提升2级,而用硫酸铝钾可使褪变色牢度提高0.5级,在6种纤维上的水洗沾色牢度基本都能达到4.5级以上。Red plant dyes were extracted from sappan wood or red rattan with the water-boiling approach and were used for silk fabrics dyeing. The effects of dyes concentration, dyeing times and mordant type on the color hue and the washing fastness were studied. The results show that the surface color depth K/S value increases significantly with the increase of dye concentration and dyeing times, and the increasing degree of sappan wood dye is higher than that of red rattan. Red brownsilk can be made with the dyes from sappan wood by repeated dyeing, and it is sensitive to the mordants, so the silk turns to crimson red by aluminum salt pre-mordanting and to dark brown by iron salt pre-mordanting. The color dyed by red rattan is pale red-brown and the color change is small when dyed by aluminum salt pre-mordanting, while its color turns to dark gray when dyed by iron salt pre-mordanting. The washing fastness of the silk fabrics dyed with two red plant dyes after pre-mordant dyeing is effectively increased. The fading fastness could be increased by up to 2 grades with ferrous sulfate pre-mordanting dyeing, and by half grades with aluminium potassium sulfatepre-mordanting. The staining fastness of soaping on the six kinds of fibers could reach grade 4.5 or above.

关 键 词：苏木 红藤 植物染料 色彩 水洗牢度 

分 类 号：TS193.62[轻工技术与工程—纺织化学与染整工程]