横向拉伸条件下衬垫组织的地组织线圈形态分析  

Analysis of the ground stitch loop shape of laid-in stitch under transverse stretch

作　　者：练婉婷 韩林原 杨允出 LIAN Wanting;HAN Linyuan;YANG Yunchu(School of Fashion Design&Engineering,Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou 310018,China;School of International Education,Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou 310018,China;MOC Key Laboratory of Silk Culture Heritage and Product Design Digital Technology,Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou 310018,China)

机构地区：[1]浙江理工大学服装学院,杭州310018 [2]浙江理工大学国际教育学院,杭州310018 [3]浙江理工大学丝绸文化传承与产品设计数字化技术文化部重点实验室,杭州310018

出　　处：《浙江理工大学学报（自然科学版）》2022年第6期856-863,共8页Journal of Zhejiang Sci-Tech University(Natural Sciences)

基　　金：浙江省自然科学基金项目(LY17E06007);浙江理工大学基本科研项目(2020Q083)。

摘　　要：为了探究衬垫组织在不同横向拉伸条件下地组织线圈形态的变化特征和规律,预测线圈的长度和形态,以平针衬垫组织的压力袜为试样,采用视觉测量技术测量线圈的圈距、圈高、圈柱高、圈柱间距、圈柱倾斜角、衬垫纱倾斜角和沉降弧倾斜角,建立地组织初始状态和横向拉伸条件下的二维线圈结构模型,计算针编弧、圈柱和沉降弧的长度。结果表明:保持压力袜纵向长度不变,横向施加拉伸后,地组织线圈形态系数逐渐减小;衬垫纱弯曲程度逐渐降低,其作用力使相邻两行线圈圈高的比值线性增加;线圈长度的实际测量值与二维模型的理论计算值较为符合,误差范围为0.99%~7.00%。该理论模型可以用于预测衬垫组织地组织线圈的长度和形态变化。In order to explore the change characteristics and rules of the ground stitch loop shape of laid-in stitch under different transverse stretch conditions, and predict the loop length and the change of the loop shape, in this study, the laid-in weft-knitted compression stockings were used as the sample, and visual measurement technology was used to measure the loop spacing, loop height, leg height, leg spacing, angles of inclination of leg, laid-in yarn and sinker loop. The two-dimensional loop structure model under the initial state and the transverse stretch condition of the ground stitch was established to calculate the length of the needle loop, leg and sinker loop. The results show that, when the longitudinal length of the compression stockings keeps unchanged and transverse stretching is applied, the loop shape coefficient of the ground stitch decreases gradually. In the meanwhile, the wave height of the laid-in yarn gradually decreases, while the loop heights′ ratio of the two adjacent courses increases linearly under stretch forces. There is good agreement between actual measurements and theoretical calculation, and the error range is 0.99%~7.00%. The loop structure model can be used to predict the length and shape change of the ground stitch loop in laid-in stitch.

关 键 词：衬垫组织 横向拉伸 线圈形态 预测模型 织物结构参数 

分 类 号：TS181[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]