中国古代纱罗织物品种体系及演变规律  

The variety system and evolution law of ancient Chinese leno fabrics

作　　者：杭航 王亚蓉[2] HANG Hang;WANG Yarong(Academy of Fine Arts,Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology,Beijing 100029,China;Institute of Archaeology,Chinese Academy of Social Sciences,Beijing 100101,China)

机构地区：[1]北京服装学院美术学院,北京100029 [2]中国社会科学院考古研究所,北京100101

出　　处：《丝绸》2022年第12期126-135,共10页Journal of Silk

基　　金：北京服装学院“中国传统服饰文化抢救传承与设计创新”博士人才培养项目(NHFZ20220162)。

摘　　要：纱罗是中国古代应用广泛的代表性丝绸品种之一,考古发现的纱罗织物品种丰富、结构多变,其特殊的绞经结构作为古代纺织技艺高水平的代表是现代传承的重点,也是创新发展的基础。本文以出土及传世纱罗实物为研究对象,从工艺和组织结构的角度对古代纱罗织物的品种进行系统研究,旨在建立中国古代纱罗织物品种体系,以探究其结构特征、演变规律,及其体现出的时代特色和社会需求。研究发现:中国古代纱罗织物大致以单层组织类品种为主,重组织类仅在明代盛行一时。其品种演变大致呈现出由简至繁,又由繁至简的发展规律,其演变本质是不断优化工艺和结构,以满足现行社会的需求。Leno is a representative silk widely used in ancient China,the leno fabrics unearthed are rich in variety and varied in structure.The special warp twisted structure,as a high-level representative of ancient textile technology,is the focus of modern inheritance and the foundation of innovation and development.Therefore,it is of great value to establish a variety system of ancient Chinese leno fabrics and to explore its structure characteristics and evolution regularity for the study of ancient Chinese textile technology,as well as the times characteristics and social needs.In this paper,based on the unearthed and handed down leno relics,the varieties of ancient Chinese leno fabrics are classified from the perspective of technology and weave structure using the research method of archaeological typology.Three important conclusions are drawn.(i) Ancient Chinese leno fabrics can be classified into two categories of single-layer weave and backed weave based on the existence of jacquard weft,into two varieties of chain type leno and fixed twisted leno according to the weave structure characteristics,and into three categories of two-warp-twisted leno,three-warp-twisted leno and four-warp-twisted leno according to the number of twist warps,which can be further subdivided nine subcategories according to the number of weft or the change of weave structure,with each variety having its outstanding characteristics of the times.(ii) the ancient Chinese leno were mainly single-layer weave fabrics,and the backed weave leno fabrics represented by the two-color leno,the golden leno and the Zhuanghua leno were mainly popular in the Ming Dynasty.(iii) The structure evolution law of the ancient Chinese leno has changed from the origins of the warp twisted weave in the Yangshao period to the chain twisted weave in the Qin and Han Dynasties,then to the comprehensive expression of warp twisted weave in the Song and Yuan Dynasties,and finally back to the fixed twisted weave again in the Qing Dynasty.The evolution of warp twisted fabrics

关 键 词：纱罗 绞经 品种 工艺 组织结构 演变规律 

分 类 号：TS105.11[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程] K876.9[轻工技术与工程—纺织科学与工程]