从阴丹士林布看民国女装的衣料技术与审美转型  

On the material technology and aesthetic transformation of women’s dress in theRepublic of China from the indanthrene cloth

作　　者：陆洁[1] 牛建涛[1] LU Jie;NIU Jiantao(School of Textile and Clothing and Art and Media,Suzhou Institute of Trade&Commerce,Suzhou 215009,China)

机构地区：[1]苏州经贸职业技术学院纺织服装与艺术传媒学院,江苏苏州215009

出　　处：《丝绸》2022年第12期156-163,共8页Journal of Silk

基　　金：教育部职业教育专业教学资源库立项建设项目(2019-33);江苏省社会科学基金项目(20YSD005)。

摘　　要：近代中国纺织工业的发展使民国女装的审美转型与衣料技术进步密切相关。文章通过查阅现存的民国纺织行业出版的三份权威报刊《华商纱厂联合会季刊》《纺织时报》《纺织周刊》,用统计法对女装衣料技术进行分类整理,得知化学染料和人造纤维已被广泛使用。当时受到广大普通女性认可的国货衣料阴丹士林布反映了两种技术的市场应用情况;通过整理分析这一时期的阴丹士林布衣广告,分别从人造纤维对女装材质的影响,化学染料对女装染色印花的影响,说明衣料技术对民国女装审美转型的助推作用,以及女性审美标准重建对女装风格转型所产生的间接影响。Benefiting from a series of measures conducive to the construction of the commodity economy taken by the government of the Republic of China and the modern transformation of the textile industry,the modern Chinese textile market gradually developed.The continuous improvement of textile production technology made it possible to change people’s lifestyle.Under the background of great social changes,women not only changed their ideology,but also learned to combine technology and art to give women’s dress a new look in the Republic of China.The scope of influence affected women of all social classes and different ages who pursued beauty.This kind of cultural aesthetic activity,which meets the daily needs of ordinary women by means of technological progress and enables everyone to participate in it,has a guiding role and practical significance for the design of modern women’s wear,and is also an important way to deeply study the timeliness of women’s wear in the Republic of China.Nowadays,although indanthrene cloth has faded out of people’s sight with the progress of the times,the dependence of modern women’s dress design on the progress of material technology is still growing.In order to better explore the close relationship between the material technology and artistic aesthetics of women’s dress in the Republic of China,we started from the perspective of how the material technology indicators affect the appearance style and aesthetic transformation of women’s dress.First of all,by consulting the three existing authoritative newspapers and periodicals published by the textile industry in the Republic of China,namely,Quarterly of the Chinese Textile Manufacturers Federation,Textile Times,and Textile Weekly,we classified women’s material technology by inductive statistics,concluding that chemical dyes and man-made fibers were the most important technological innovation projects in the textile industry of the Republic of China.Secondly,based on the supply and demand information of the domestic material

关 键 词：阴丹士林布 民国女装 衣料技术 审美转型 化学染料 人造纤维 

分 类 号：TS941.12[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程] J522[艺术—艺术设计]