中国蒙古族传统罟罟冠形制研究——基于法国国家图书馆藏《史集》中插图  

Analysis on the shape and structure of Mongolian traditional Gu Gu crowns in the illustrations of the Jāmi’al-Tawārīkh in the National Library of France

作　　者：朱玲敏 贺阳 ZHU Lingmin;HE Yang(Academy of Fine Arts,Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology,Beijing 100029,China)

机构地区：[1]北京服装学院美术学院,北京100029

出　　处：《丝绸》2022年第12期164-172,共9页Journal of Silk

基　　金：北京服装学院中国传统服饰文化的抢救传承与设计创新人才培养项目(NHFZ20210162);北京服装学院研究生课程思政教学改革项目(120301990132)。

摘　　要：基于法国国家图书馆藏《史集》波斯细密画插图中几十身蒙元时期蒙古族贵妇形象均身着蒙古族传统服饰、头戴罟罟冠,文章通过文献、图像相结合的方法,根据其服用场合,分析研究图像中罟罟冠的基本形制、造型及其装饰特点。研究认为,《史集》插图中的罟罟冠形制特点除守丧时会只留兜帽及冠帔外,随着服用场合变化不大。罟罟冠仿生天鹅的造型以示图腾崇拜,上方下圆的结构特点诠释了男女结合的意义。其朵朵翎长度、羽团数量,兜帽颜色及冠帔长度的变化表现出罟罟冠的实用性被装饰性取代,成为身份地位的象征。中晚期罟罟冠装饰纹样频繁出现十字金纹,凸显贵族妇女中不乏景教徒身份。该版本《史集》插图为研究蒙元时期贵族妇女首服形制及其象征意义提供了珍贵的图像资料,通过展开系统深入研究可以更好地传承中国传统服饰文化。Jāmi’al-Tawārīkh is a detailed history book of Mongolia compiled by the prime minister Rashid al-Din under an order issued by Ghazan Khan in 700 of the Islamic calendar(1310-1311 A.D.).After the book was finished,the royal family invested a great deal of manpower,material and financial resources to draw its illustrated edition,which was completed between 1306 A.D.and 1314 A.D.In this period,Persian miniatures had strong Mongolian characteristics.The facial shapes of the characters showed the image characteristics of Mongolians,and the clothing styles and patterns on the clothes also had the characteristics of Mongolian and even traditional Chinese costumes.Among them,Jāmi’al-Tawārīkh in the National Library of France was drawn between 1425 A.D.and 1430 A.D.There are 15 Persian miniatures in the book that illustrate the Gu Gu crowns worn by aristocratic women of Mongolia,which were the headgear favored by women of the ethnic group at that time,and were very popular.The Gu Gu crowns in the illustrations are rich in color and clear in structure,which provide precious and detailed historical image data for us to study the shape and manufacture characteristics of Gu Gu crowns in the Mongolian and Yuan Dynasties.Through reading the pictures,we can learn the color,pattern,shape,structure,collocation,wearing effect,and identity of the wearers,wearing occasions and other practical problems of the Gu Gu crowns.Combined with the ancient documents and images,we can further study and analyze the specific shape and system of the Gu Gu crowns in the Mongol(Yuan) period,the characteristics of wearing and the related cultural connotation behind them.Firstly,the 15 illustrated wearing scenes were classified,and the wearing characteristics of Gu Gu crowns in different scenes were summarized to find out their regularity.Secondly,the characteristics of wearing the Gu Gu crowns in different scenes were compared,and the different meanings they represent were analyzed and studied.Finally,we concluded the shape characteristics

关 键 词：波斯细密画 史集 蒙古族妇女 中国传统服饰 形制 罟罟冠 

分 类 号：TS941.12[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程] J522[艺术—艺术设计]