民国女袜特征及功能转变解析  

Analysis of the Characteristics and Functional Transformation of Women's Socks in the Republic of China

作　　者：戚欣晨 孔凡栋 QI Xin-chen;KONG Fan-dong(School of Fashion Design&Engineering,Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou,Zhejiang,310018,China;Zhejiang International Institute of Fashion Technology,Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou,Zhejiang,310018,China)

机构地区：[1]浙江理工大学服装学院,浙江杭州310018 [2]浙江理工大学国际时装技术学院,浙江杭州310018

出　　处：《浙江纺织服装职业技术学院学报》2022年第4期40-45,共6页Journal of Zhejiang Fashion Institute of Technology

基　　金：国家社科基金艺术学一般项目(编号:20BG134)。

摘　　要：民国时期追求身体自由及人格独立的新女性,选择服饰的自由意识逐渐被唤醒,促进了女袜的变革与发展。从缠足到放足,再到裸足,由裹脚布与布袜到线袜与丝袜,女袜在造型样式、织物材质和色彩层次上发生显著改变。文章结合实物资料、文献记载及图像视读,分析得出民国女袜通过造型样式的渐变演化、织物材质的改良以及色彩层次的多元趋势,诠释出“容足”“适人”和“彰人”三大功能特点,成为现代袜子雏形,亦揭示了袜子作为足之内衣的重要作用。During the period of the Republic of China,the new women who pursued freedom of body and independence of personality gradually awakened their consciousness of freedom in choosing clothing,which promoted the reform and development of women's socks.From foot wrapping to foot release to bare feet,from foot wrapping cloth and cloth socks to thread and silk socks,women socks changed significantly in terms of shape,material and color level.Based on the material data,literature records and visual image,this paper analyzes the evolution of women's socks in the Republic of China through the gradual change of modeling style,improvement of fabric materials and diversification of color levels and interprets the three functions of"accommodating the foot","fitting the person"and"manifesting the person",which has become the prototype of modern socks and also reveals the important role of socks as the underwear of feet.

关 键 词：民国 女袜 针织袜 丝袜 功能特征 发展演变 

分 类 号：TS941.3[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]