运动服面料表面滑爽整理与功能优化  

Surface smooth finishing and function optimization of sportswear fabric

作　　者：张露 倪晓 李晓阳 陈莹[1] Zhang Lu;Ni Xiao;Li Xiaoyang;Chen Ying(School of Material Design and Engineering,Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology,Beijing 100029,China)

机构地区：[1]北京服装学院材料设计与工程学院,北京100029

出　　处：《产业用纺织品》2022年第7期40-45,共6页Technical Textiles

基　　金：2020年大学生创新创业训练计划项目(2020100120833);北京服装学院科学研究项目(2020A-09)。

摘　　要：基于目前橄榄球运动中存在着双方队员相互碰撞抓扯衣服,进而影响竞技成绩的问题,采用滑爽剂和柔软剂对面料表面进行滑爽整理,探究滑爽剂和柔软剂的质量浓度与配比对运动服面料摩擦因数、表面粗糙度和透气率、透湿率的影响。结果显示,经质量浓度为50.0 g/L的高蓬松柔软整理剂整理后,运动服面料的摩擦因数最小,为0.076,与未整理面料的摩擦因数相比降低了44.9%,但透气透湿性能均有降低,这表明面料表面滑爽整理对于降低面料摩擦因数是有效的。该研究成果可为运动服面料表面滑爽整理提供数据参考,并指出后续整理过程中可利用大量的细针刺破面料表面的涂层,达到改善面料透气性和透湿性的目的。In view of the problem that the players of both sides collided and scratched the clothes in the current rugby,which would affect the competitive performance,the surface of the fabrics was smoothed by using the smooth agent and softener,and the influence of the mass concentration and proportion of the smooth agent and softener on the friction coefficient,surface roughness,air permeability and moisture permeability of the sportswear fabric were explored.The results showed that,after finishing with high fluffy soft finishing agent with mass concentration of 50.0 g/L,the friction coefficient of sportswear fabrics was the smallest,0.076,which decreased by 44.9%compare with that of unfinished fabric,but the air permeability and moisture permeability were decreased,which illustrated that the surface smooth finishing on fabric was effective in reducing the friction coefficient of fabrics.The research results can provide data references for surface smooth finishing of sportswear fabric,and points out that a large number of fine needles can be used to break the coating of fabric surface in the subsequent finishing process to improve the air permeability and moisture permeability of fabric.

关 键 词：运动服面料 滑爽性 后整理 摩擦因数 表面粗糙度 透气率 透湿率 

分 类 号：TS195.5[轻工技术与工程—纺织化学与染整工程]