环锭数码纺纱线特征参数及其对织物外观影响  

Influence of digital yarn characteristic parameters on fabric appearance

作　　者：郭明瑞[1] 高卫东[1] GUO Mingrui;GAO Weidong(Key Laboratory of Eco-Textiles(Jiangnan University),Ministry of Education,Wuxi,Jiangsu 214122,China)

机构地区：[1]生态纺织教育部重点实验室(江南大学),江苏无锡214122

出　　处：《纺织学报》2022年第11期41-45,共5页Journal of Textile Research

基　　金：国家自然科学基金项目(52003105);江苏省博士后科研资助计划项目(2020Z140B)。

摘　　要：为明晰基于环锭数码纺纱技术特点所纺数码纺纱线的特征分类,以及对后道织物结构与外观效果的影响,通过分析两通道全二级牵伸数码纺技术原理,纺制一系列变化线密度和混纺比的多类变纱。数码纺纱线的特征参数可定义为:基准线密度、周期长度、混纺比(线密度)变化区间、周期内片段数(或片段变化梯度)。通过对数码纺纱线及其织物分析得到:混纺比(线密度)的变化区间越大,段彩(竹节)效应越强;周期长度决定织物横条的宽度,周期越长,横条越宽;一个周期中包含的片段数量多少对织物段彩(竹节)效应强弱有一定的影响,片段数量增多,段彩(竹节)效应减弱。In order to clarify the classification of characteristics of digital yarns based on the digital ring spinning and its influence on the fabric structure and appearance.By analyzing the principle of two-channel two-stage drawing digital spinning,a variety of yarns with varying linear densities or blending ratios were spun.The characteristic parameters of digital yarns were selected to include the base linear density,cycle length,variation range of blending ratio(linear density),number of fragments within a cycle or variation gradient between two adjacent segments.It is concluded that the greater the variation range of blending ratio(linear density),the stronger the segment color(slub)effect,and that the width of the fabric strip is determined by the cycle length and a longer period corresponds to a wider segment effect.The number of segments contained in a cycle has certain influence on the strength of segment color effect,and as the number of segments increases the segment color effect demonstrates a decrease.

关 键 词：环锭数码纺 纱线 混纺比 线密度 段彩效应 竹节效应 

分 类 号：TS104.1[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程]