柿叶色素的提取及其对真丝绸的染色  

Extraction of Pigment from Persimmon Leaves and Its Dyeing to Silk

作　　者：陈仕钰 于淼 CHEN Shiyu;YU Miao(College of Textile and Clothing,Qingdao University,Qingdao 266071 China;China National Textile and Apparel Council Key Laboratory of Flexible Devices for Intelligent Textile and Apparel,Soochow University,Suzhou 215123 China)

机构地区：[1]青岛大学纺织服装学院,青岛266071 [2]苏州大学纺织行业智能纺织服装柔性器件重点实验室,苏州215123

出　　处：《服饰导刊》2022年第6期5-9,共5页Fashion Guide

摘　　要：[研究意义]柿叶色素是植物染料中比较少见的绿色染料,为了进一步扩充当前植物染料的资源,探索了柿叶色素的浸提工艺及其对真丝绸不同染色法的染色效果。[研究结果与结论]柿叶色素浸提法最优的提取工艺为:提取温度75℃,乙醇浓度40%,料液比1:10,提取时间100min。在水浴锅和水浴恒温振荡器处理下,探索柿叶色素对真丝绸染色的最佳工艺条件,通过递推法实验得出相比于水浴锅染色,通过水浴恒温振荡器染色的织物上色效果更好,振荡染色的最佳染色工艺为:染色温度60℃,浴比1:35,染色时间60min,转速125r/min。以明矾和醋酸铁作为媒染剂,优化柿叶染色真丝绸的媒染工艺,分析直接染色与媒染的真丝绸的颜色特征值,并测试其耐摩擦牢度和耐皂洗牢度。Persimmon leaf pigment is a relatively rare green dye in plant dyes. In order to further expand the resources of current plant dyes, the extraction process of persimmon leaf pigment and its dyeing effect on different dyeing methods of real silk were explored. The optimum extraction conditions of pigment from persimmon leaves were as follows: extraction temperature 75 ℃, ethanol concentration 40%, solid-liquid ratio 1:10, extraction time 100 min. The optimal dyeing conditions of persimmon leaf pigment on silk fabric were explored under the treatment of water bath pot and water bath constant temperature oscillator. The results showed that the dyeing effect of persimmon leaf pigment on silk fabric was better than that of water bath pot dyeing. The optimal dyeing process of oscillation dyeing was as follows: dyeing temperature 60℃, bath ratio 1:35, dyeing time 60 min, rotating speed125 r/min. Alum and iron acetate were used as mordants to optimize the mordant dyeing process of persimmon leaf dyed silk and to analyze the color characteristic values of silk dyed directly and mordant, and test its rubbing fastness and soaping fastness.

关 键 词：柿叶 提取 染色 真丝绸 

分 类 号：TS193.62[轻工技术与工程—纺织化学与染整工程]