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作 者:黄伟[1] 陈东生[2] HUANG Wei;CHEN Dongsheng(School of Fashion Design,Jiangxi Institute of Fashion,Nanchang 330201 China;China Fashion Culture Research Center,Jiangxi Institute of Fashion,Nanchang 330201 China)
机构地区:[1]江西服装学院服装设计学院,南昌330201 [2]江西服装学院中华服饰文化研究中心,南昌330201
出 处:《服饰导刊》2022年第6期45-54,共10页Fashion Guide
基 金:教育部人文社会科学研究规划基金项目(18YJA760001);依托平台:南昌市服装数字化系统设计重点实验室(2019-NCZDSY-012)。
摘 要:[研究方法与内容]文章以中南民族博物馆馆藏台湾少数民族传统服装为研究基础,运用文献研究法、田园调查法、比较分析法对台湾高山族服装的门襟、领、袖、裤、裙等方面开展造型研究,并对其服装造型特征、结构特征、设计理念、成因进行了分析,为探讨台湾高山族各族群服装的结构体系提供参考资料。[研究结果与结论]研究认为:(1)台湾高山族服装造型在各服饰文化的汇集下不断的进行发展与演变;(2)高山族服装形制和款式造型的构成与其所处地理环境有着密切关系,其造型设计以实用性为主,装饰性为辅;台湾高山族与祖国大陆属同宗同源。Gaoshan Nationality in Taiwan is a branch with distinctive characteristics among many ethnic minorities in China. Its clothing development and evolution is the crystallization of politics, economy, production, life, climate and the wisdom of the people. It has a historical brand and shows strong uniqueness and nationality. Based on the research of the literature on the causes of the traditional dress design and sleeve cover of 14 ethnic groups in Taiwan, this paper analyzes the characteristics of the jacket and sleeve cover of men and women’s clothing in the collection of the Museum of central and southern Taiwan, It provides reference for exploring the clothing structure system of Gaoshan ethnic groups in Taiwan. The research shows that: 1 The clothing modeling of Gaoshan Nationality in Taiwan is constantly developing and evolving under the collection of various clothing cultures. With the continuous development of economy and politics, the cultural input in different periods has had a certain impact on the clothing of Gaoshan Nationality in Taiwan, and the clothing modeling has integrated modern elements. 2. The clothing modeling of Gaoshan Nationality in Taiwan has typical regionality. Gaoshan people in Taiwan live on the mountainous island of Taiwan and the climate is hot and rainy. The clothes of Gaoshan people in Taiwan are mostly collarless, sleeveless and short sleeved, with loose body and short length;The lower garments are mainly of "encircling" structure, and some mountain ethnic groups have leggings. It has the characteristics of being easy to wear and take off, loose and breathable, human body protection and so on, which proves that the geographical environment determines the clothing modeling structure of Gaoshan Nationality and has strong regionality. 3. The clothing of Taiwan Gaoshan Nationality is mainly practical and decorative. The clothing modeling characteristics of Taiwan Gaoshan Nationality are analyzed from the economic production modes of farming, farming and hunting, fishing and huntin
分 类 号:TS941.12[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]
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