明清霞帔比较及其成因探析  

A Comparison of Xiapei in the Ming and Qing Dynasties and the Causes of Formation

作　　者：孔令梅 王宏付 KONG Lingmei;WANG Hongfu(School of Design,Jiangnan University,Wuxi 214122 China)

机构地区：[1]江南大学设计学院,江苏无锡214122

出　　处：《服饰导刊》2022年第6期63-70,共8页Fashion Guide

基　　金：江苏省研究生实践创新计划项目(1132050205206129);中央高校基金科研业务费专项资金项目(JUSRP51735B)。

摘　　要：[研究意义]霞帔是古代命妇礼服的一种配饰,它的出现不仅丰富了中国服饰的内容,也为研究中国的服饰礼仪制度起到了借鉴作用。[研究方法]文章采用文献研究法和对比研究法,结合明清史料与图像资料,从形制、色彩、纹样、工艺等对明清霞帔进行多方位比较。[研究结果与结论]通过分析明、清两代霞帔的相承性和差异性,最终得出满汉民族之间服饰的差异与融合以及织造技艺的不断发展成熟还有当朝不同政治势力关于服饰礼制思想的不同解读是二者产生异同的三个主要成因。在传统服饰礼制的基础上厘清明清霞帔具体的演变情况及其成因,有助于认识霞帔中所承载的中国传统服饰礼制的内涵与发展历程。Xiapei(cape)was an accessory to the ancient dress of titled madam;its appearance not only enriched the con⁃tent of Chinese costumes but also served as a reference for the Chinese dress etiquette system.There has been much academic research on Xiapei.However,from the perspective of traditional dress etiquette,there is still a gap in the comparative study of the similarities and differences between the two periods of the Ming and Qing dynasties.The article adopts documentary and comparative research methods,combining historical and pictorial materials from the Ming and Qing dynasties,and makes a mul⁃tifaceted comparison of the Xiapei of the Ming and Qing dynasties in terms of shape,color,pattern,and craftsmanship.The arti⁃cle analyzes the inheritance and differences between the Ming and Qing dynasties and concludes that there are three reasons for their differences and similarities:First,the differences and integration of the Manchu and Chinese nationalities in the dress.Sec⁃ond,historical development led to the continuous maturation of weaving techniques.Third,the different interpretations of the po⁃litical forces of the dynasty regarding the idea of dress etiquette.By clarifying the evolution,similarities,and differences of Xia Pei in the Ming and Qing dynasties based on traditional dress etiquette,we can help understand the connotation and develop⁃ment of Chinese dress etiquette carried in Xiapei.

关 键 词：明清霞帔 命妇礼服 礼仪制度 传统服饰 对比研究 

分 类 号：TS941.12[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]