基于2007-2022时装周的Valentino斗篷趋势分析  

Valentino Cloak Trend Analysis Based on 2007-2022 Fashion Weeks

作　　者：孔成 黎蓉 KONG Cheng;LI Rong(School of Fashion Design,Wuhan Textile University,Wuhan 430073 China)

机构地区：[1]武汉纺织大学服装学院,武汉430073

出　　处：《服饰导刊》2022年第6期144-158,共15页Fashion Guide

基　　金：武汉市时尚产业调研报告(182142)。

摘　　要：[研究意义]Valentino作为有着62年历史的女装品牌,在时尚界的地位是不可替代的,斗篷作为Valentino的服装品类之一,既体现了品牌的设计风格,又预示着流行趋势。[研究方法]文章通过对Valentino斗篷图片的采集、分类、归纳等方法对2007-2022年四大国际时装周发布的斗篷款式进行分析,从色彩、廓型、长度三个方面研究其款式特征并对2023年Valentino斗篷的样式进行预测,[研究结果与结论]研究发现:(1)色彩方面,主要从3个方面(色相、纯度、明度)分析。色相方面,2023年色系种类预计保持在11种左右,一定会出现无彩色系的斗篷,华伦天奴红出现概率极大,其他有彩色系分配较平均;纯度方面,2023年高纯度占比仍然会持续增长,中纯度占比变化不规律,对其推测难度较高,低纯度斗篷占比至少能达到50%;明度方面,低明度、高明度斗篷2023年大概率会有所回升;中明度占比可能会有小幅地下降。(2)廓型方面,主要从两个方面(外廓型、内结构)进行分析。外廓型方面,2023年,A型和H型占比都会有一定的上升,大概率会有细长型斗篷出现,纺锤型斗篷可能不出现,而O型、箱型斗篷较难推测;内结构方面,一片构成式在2023年占比会有所下降,二片、三片构成式斗篷占比大概率会有所上升。(3)长度方面,笔者主要是从斗篷长度的变化趋势和流行趋势进行分析。变化趋势方面,2023年短斗篷和及膝斗篷占比会有所上升,拖尾、中长斗篷占比会下降,而对长斗篷的推测难度较大;流行趋势方面,笔者主要分析了在斗篷廓型中占比极大的A型和H型斗篷,可以推断出斗篷底摆在膝盖以下的A型和H型斗篷大概率会成为2023年的流行样式。As a 62-year-old womenswear brand, Valentino’s place in the fashion world is irreplaceable. As one of Valentino’s clothing categories, the cloak embodies the brand’s design style and heralds fashion trends.By collecting, classifying and summarising images of Valentino cloaks, the article analyses the cloak styles presented at the four major international fashion weeks from 2007 to 2022, examining their style characteristics in terms of colour, silhouette and length and making predictions about the styles of Valentino cloaks for 2023.(1) In terms of colour, three main directions were studied: hue, purity and lightness. Firstly, the hue aspect. Colourless cloaks are essential for Valentino, while the number of coloured cloaks has gradually increased since 2012.In 2023, the author predicts at least 11 colour varieties and definitely a colourless cloak, with a high probability of the brand’s representative colour, Valentino red, appears reflecting a more even distribution of the other shades.Secondly, in terms of purity. Based on 16 years of purity data and the trend of the proportion, the author predicts that the proportion of high purity will continue to grow in 2023;the proportion of medium purity has no obvious pattern of change,presumably with high difficulty;the proportion of low purity can reach at least 50%. Third, the brightness aspect. Based on 16years of brightness data, the author predicts that the proportion of low brightness cloaks will probably increase in 2023;the proportion of medium brightness will probably decrease slightly;and the proportion of high brightness will increase in 2023, but by a very small margin.(2) In terms of silhouette, the author has analyzed two aspects of the silhouette of Valentino cloaks from2007-2022(outer silhouette, internal structure) have been analysed. In terms of outer silhouette, the A and H cloaks lead the other silhouette cloaks with a breakthrough share, while the share trends for the O, box, slender and spindle cloaks fluctuate.2023 will see some increase

关 键 词：斗篷 VALENTINO 时装周 服装流行研究方法 变化规律 

分 类 号：TS941.12[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]