粤港澳三地香云纱服饰艺术特征研究  

Research on the artistic characteristics of gambiered Canton gauze costumes in Guangdong,Hong Kong and Macao

作　　者：孙恩乐[1] 邓达智 何锦辉 SUN Enle;DENG Dazhi;HE Jinhui(Modern Garment Engineering Technology Center,Guangdong University of Technology,Guangzhou 510062,China;Hong Kong freelance designer,Hong Kong 000852,China;Macao Culture and Creative Industry Talent Development Association,Macao 000853,China)

机构地区：[1]广东工业大学现代服装工程技术中心,广东广州510062 [2]香港设计师,中国香港000852 [3]澳门文化创意产业人才发展协会,中国澳门000853

出　　处：《东华大学学报（社会科学版）》2022年第4期43-48,共6页Journal of Donghua University:Social Science

基　　金：2020国家社科基金艺术学项目“粤港澳近现代服饰混生演进研究”(项目编号:20BG101)资助。

摘　　要：清代以来,珠江三角洲一带生产的香云纱不仅在华中、华南地区久负盛名,还远销东南亚。香云纱服饰作为广东、香港和澳门三地百姓的常服之一,其独特的面料肌理和服饰造型具有粤港澳服饰艺术的典型地域性特质。该文首先分析香云纱染整技艺,以及粤港澳三地香云纱服饰的共性和个性艺术特征;再提出粤港澳三地混生文化背景下,染整技艺让香云纱历经时光打磨,仍然保持其独一无二的深沉肌理色彩和凉爽透气的面料性能;最后阐述香云纱技艺如何在新时代展现新形象,并演绎出新的艺术特征。Since the Qing Dynasty,the gambiered Canton gauze produced in the Pearl River Delta has not only been famous in Central China and South China,but also exported to Southeast Asia.Gambiered Canton gauze clothing is also one of the common clothes of the people in Guangdong,Hong Kong and Macao,and its unique fabric texture and costume shape have become the typical regional characteristics of Guangdong,Hong Kong and Macao costume art.The paper first analyzes the commonalities and individual artistic characteristics of the typical costumes of gambiered Canton gauze in Guangdong,Hong Kong and Macao in the three periods of modernity,personality and contemporary;Then it is proposed that in the context of the mixed culture of Guangdong,Hong Kong and Macao,the gambiered Canton gauze dyeing and finishing technique still maintains its unique deep texture color,cool and breathable performance;Finally,the new artistic characteristics of gambiered Canton gauze are elaborated under the interpretation of new images in the new era.

关 键 词：香云纱 艺术特征 服饰设计 广东 香港 澳门 

分 类 号：TS941.12[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]