香云纱染整技艺及其机理探讨  

Dyeing technique of Xiang-yun-sha and its mechanism exploration

作　　者：潘媛媛 左志伟 孙国萍[2] PAN Yuanyuan;ZUO Zhiwei;SUN Guoping(Jiangxi Province Key Laboratory of the Causes and Control of Atmospheric Pollution,East China University of Technology,Nanchang 300013,China;State Key Laboratory of Applied Microbiology Southern China,Guangdong Institute of Microbiology,Guangzhou 510070,China)

机构地区：[1]东华理工大学江西省大气污染成因与控制重点实验室,江西南昌300013 [2]广东省微生物研究所华南应用微生物国家重点实验室,广东广州510070

出　　处：《东华大学学报（社会科学版）》2022年第4期56-61,共6页Journal of Donghua University:Social Science

基　　金：广东省科技计划项目“非物质文化遗产香云纱染整技艺中‘过乌’用泥标准的建立”(项目编号:2014A02022006)。

摘　　要：国家级非物质文化遗产香云纱染整技艺是一种古老的纯手工天然染整技艺,同时结合植物染(薯莨)和矿物染(河泥)。独特的染整技艺赋予香云纱凉爽舒适、易洗快干、经久耐穿等诸多服用性能。但是目前香云纱染整技艺的机理尚未明晰。大部分的研究重点关注薯莨和河泥中的染色成分,对于其在染整过程中的反应原理关注较少。本文通过现场考察、文献调研及实验数据挖掘对香云纱染整技艺机理进行深入探讨,加强人们对该技艺的了解,并提出了亟待破解的难题,为其传承与发展提供科学指导。The national intangible cultural heritage Xiang-yun-sha dyeing technique,is an ancient pure handmade natural dyeing and finishing technology,combining plant dyeing(Ju-liang)and mineral dyeing(river mud).It gives Xiang-yun-sha a number of clothing properties such as coolness and comfortability,easy washing and fast drying,and durable wearing,ect.However,so far,the mechanism of Xiang-yun-sha dyeing technique has not yet been clarified.Most of the present researches focused on the dyeing components in Ju-Liang and river mud,while less attentions were paid to their reactions during the dyeing process.This paper conducted in-depth discussion on the mechanism of Xiang-yun-sha dyeing technique through on-site investigation,literature research and experimental data mining,furthering people's understanding,presenting puzzles needed to solve,and providing scientific guidance for inheritance and development of this technique.

关 键 词：非物质文化遗产 香云纱 薯莨 河泥 染整机理 

分 类 号：TS190.5[轻工技术与工程—纺织化学与染整工程]