从宫廷到民间:巴黎的时尚商人及其在法国近代社会转型中的作用  

From the Royal Court to the Secular Society: Marchande des Modes in Paris and Their Role in the Modernisation of the French Society

作　　者：周薇薇 Zhou Weiwei

机构地区：[1]四川大学历史文化学院

出　　处：《世界历史》2022年第5期68-82,I0004,I0005,共17页World History

摘　　要：18世纪下半叶,法国正在酝酿着一场巨大的社会变革。在众多有形无形的变化中,较为显著的当属被认为是冲破了旧制度下等级秩序的“服装革命”。而推动这场革命的现代时尚,在很大程度上是由这个时期崛起的以女性为主的时尚商人创造和传播的。以罗斯·贝尔丹为代表的时尚商人大多出身低微,却成为法国社会现代化的推动者。她们跨越了贵族与平民之间森严的壁垒,突破了中世纪以来对妇女参与经济活动的种种限制,成为以时尚消费连接宫廷、贵族和第三等级的媒介;她们开创了橱窗展示和模特推广等现代营销方式,让旧制度下专属于贵族的时尚深入民间,也让巴黎成为真正的时尚之都。然而,她们在法国社会变革中的作用却一直被低估甚至忽视。她们虽然推动了时尚传播,促进了奢侈性消费,但对宫廷王室的依赖又让她们成为大革命前夕法国社会矛盾的聚焦点,充当了性别歧视和阶级对抗的牺牲品。A significant social change was taking place in France in the second half of the 18thcentury.The‘clothing revolution’,which was regarded as having overturned the hierarchical structure under the old system,stood out among various tangible and intangible changes.The female-dominated fashion merchants(marchande des modes)who arose during this period were significantly responsible for creating and disseminating the modern fashion that propelled this transformation.The majority of the fashion merchants represented by Rose Bertin were of humble origin,while they aided in the modernisation of the French society to a considerable extent.They became a bridge connecting the royal court,the nobility and the third class through the fashion consumption,breaking through the limits on women’s engagement in the economic pursuits that had existed since the Middle Ages.They invented contemporary fashion marketing techniques like window displays and fashion dolls,establishing Paris as a true fashion metropolis.Their reliance on the royal court,on the other hand,made them the focal point of the social tensions in France on the eve of the Great Revolution,and they were victims of sexism and class animosity.

关 键 词：法国妇女 时尚商人 服装革命 社会转型 奢侈性消费 

分 类 号：K565.4[历史地理—历史学] F119[历史地理—世界史]